Just as the kitchen often functions as the hub of a household, so can a restaurant stand as
the backbone of a neighborhood. Looking around Lansing's landscape, our region is filled
with locally owned and operated eateries with importance well beyond that which is served
on a plate. From a gathering place for meals, special occasions, or even a mental health
check-in with a dear friend to a place to be seen, catch up on the latest news (or gossip), or
find stabilizing employment; these "mom & pop" restaurants perform critical roles in
fostering a sense of community. When one of these neighborhood icons closes, it leaves a
social void in addition to a flavor vacuum.
Such was the case on Willow St. on Lansing's Northwest corner when DeLuca's Restaurant
closed in 2021. Not only did Lansing lose some of the best pizza in the area, but the
neighborhood lost an icon that had housed joy and deliciousness for many decades. This
was on the heels of the neighborhood's local chain dairy and convenience store closing in
2018. Lansing's Northwest, Old Oakland, and Basset Park neighborhoods were without
many options to anchor their community around. Enter John Douglas and Quantel
McKissic owners of Hank's Cuisine which opened in October and features soul food,
breakfast, burgers, and more. The pair purchased the former dairy store and, after delays
associated with the pandemic, renovated the space into a sit-down restaurant with
multiple booths and tables, but the bread and butter of the operation is takeout.
McKissic, who endured his own physical setback being a survivor of gun violence, and
Douglas see their small business as playing a large part in the vitality and strength of the
neighborhood. On one of my visits, I witnessed Mr. Douglas providing instruction and
feedback to a worker that he'd taken a chance on, while also correcting a young boy who
was speaking out of turn to his mother. This exhibition of leadership and civic presence is
emblematic of someone who has invested more than just money into a business but also
sweat equity into a community. What Hank's Cuisine represents is just as important as
what it cooks up on a daily. And the food is also darn impressive.
What's Good
The southern flavors found at Hank's rivals any of your favorites around town. The Dirty Rice
($4.99) is packed full of savory, crumbled meat and the rice is cooked well and pairs well
with any of the proteins offered on the menu- including the sauteed shrimp ($6.99/side).
The Spaghetti with Texas Toast ($8.99) is a baked noodle dish with intense flavors and
plenty of cheese. The massive portion was enough for multiple meals for My Much Better
Half. It was the epitome of soul food spaghetti with nods to both Italian and southern
essence. The Hanks Smash Burger and Fries ($11.99) add bacon ($3.30) was also very solid
and the Hanks sauce, akin to a sauce found near the golden arches, marries well with the
crunchy bites of the smashed flattop grilled burger.
What's Really Good
The breakfast options at Hank's Cuisine are served all day. Breakfast bowls, Bagel
sandwiches, and steak and eggs are joined on the menu by several French Toast options
including, Cinnamon Toast Crunch and Stuffed Strawberry Cheesecake. My daughter
chose the Fruity Pebbles French Toast ($14.99). The platter comes with eggs and choice of
meat, but the star of the show is the glazed Texas toast that's coated with flakes of Fruity
Pebbles and dusted with ground up flakes. It sounds sweet because it is, as this dish is not
for the faint of heart or the prediabetic.
The Fried Chicken Sandwich ($11.49) is also seriously good. A thick filet is battered and
fried hard to a crusty perfection. Tossed in my chosen sauce of Nashville Hot ($2.08) the
sandwich hit all the right notes of sweet heat- paprika, cayenne, honey, and brown sugar.
This sandwich is so very pleasing.
Best Bite
As good as the chicken sandwich was, this month's best bite goes to the Fried Spicy Fish
and Grits ($13.99). I've been yearning for another bowl of those lush and creamy hominy
grits with cheese and creole seasoning since I finished the last bowl. The three pieces of
fish are battered with a nice combination of cornmeal and flour, and they pair so
impeccably with the grits. Add a drizzle of the hot honey sauce and you will be planning
your next visit to the Northwest side of Lansing read more