Terrible. My wife, our baby, and I were staying in Gearhart last weekend and had planned to go to Nonni's Bistro in Seaside on Saturday night; unfortunately, they were closed for construction. I, however, was still craving Italian food, and a quick Google search told me the only other place for miles was Fulio's in Astoria.
I ignored my better judgment, which told me to run away when I saw "Italian and Mediterannean" in the restaurant's description. An Italian restaurant should be an Italian restaurant. Period. Don't screw around and add Greek or Lebanese or whatever else falls under the umbrella of "Mediterranean." Anyway, I ignored this red flag and we drove up there anyway.
The positive parts were the ambiance (cool, light, nice posters of Italian movies and such on the wall, cool chandeliers and things) and the service (friendly and prompt). However, the menu was another red flag. Immediately I noticed bastardized concoctions like ravioli in curry sauce and totally alien dishes like fish tacos. Again ignoring my better judgment, I told myself I'd stick to the classics and be OK. I should have walked then and there.
We started with an antipasto platter. This was not bad, actually, and it was probably the best part of our meal. It was, however, completely uninspired. Nothing on it looked housemade and in fact I'm pretty sure it all came from the supermarket. There was salami, some provolone cheese, water crackers, olives, and peppers. All tasted fine, but nothing special or unique about it.
For our main course I had veal marsala and my wife had veal parmesan. It comes with a pasta side, so I chose alfredo and she chose "marinara;" i.e. red sauce. Not correct terminology (marinara means it has seafood in it) but a common enough misuse in America.
When the veal came out, it was absurdly thin and skimpy, and yet somehow still overcooked and rubbery. The marsala sauce was OK, but a good sauce can't cover a bad piece of meat. Not in an Italian dish. My pasta was all right, but my wife's spaghetti was drowning in sauce. It looked more like a soup than a proper pasta dish.
After a disappointing dinner, our baby was starting to fuss and we had to go, but I did let the waitress talk me into getting tiramisu to go. Tiramisu is my favorite dessert in the world and I figured it would be somewhat redeeming; how could they screw that up? Took it back to the hotel and it turned out it was pretty soggy. Not the worst part of the meal by far but not the redeeming moment I had hoped for.
All in all, I won't be coming back to Fulio's, and I've gotten a strong reminder that no Italian is better than bad Italian. I would have been better served to go to one of the fish and chips places in Seaside or Cannon Beach and get simple food made well than to suffer this travesty of "Italian and Mediterranean" cuisine. read more