[Coronavirus Review]
So here's an interesting business. They've been running for some time as only takeout and delivery out of Union Kitchen in Ivy City. There's not even a storefront or anything, nor is there online ordering. You call, you literally wait in front of the alley next to the building, and you pick up your pizza (if you're doing takeout). And yes, it's the sort of alley that makes one a tad nervous. Pre-coronavirus, I found this confusing and annoying, and thus I hadn't gotten around to trying this place. But right now we're operating under severe restrictions, which have caused most DC restaurants to shut down or radically change their business model. Except this one. They're pretty much still trucking along; just that now the person bringing out the pizza is wearing gloves and a mask. My understanding is that this place was supposed to move to its own restaurant space on Capitol Hill in the near future, but for right now, they've got the perfect setup.
So how's the pizza? They offer a variety of specialized regional pizzas, which makes me a bit of a skeptic; usually specializing in one thing is the way to go. But I had to try their Detroit style and compare it with the other places forwarding this local trend. It's pretty amazing. I ordered a Detroit hottie, and received an extra call to warn me that they were running low on hot peppers and weren't sure if they'd quite have enough, and I said go ahead and make it anyway. If you look at the picture, you'll see that the pizza I received had quite a lot of hot peppers, which tasted like they were added fresh after baking, and were quite powerful. The pizza as a whole was distinctive, with a chewy crust and a ridge of browned cheese running around the side. This was indulgent. I think it beat out the other Detroit style places I've tried here, both of which were plenty good.
I also ordered a New York style pizza for variety, getting the pomodoro, a tomato pie with very light cheese to counter my heavier pizza. I wish I hadn't gotten the large, as it was a legit NY large in a box that couldn't possibly fit into a refrigerator. It wasn't as distinctive or anything, but I liked the sauce. One or both pizzas were definitely a bit high on salt; wish they'd dial back a bit.
Besides being a takeout only place in a "food incubator", their other limitation is that they only do straight-up gluten and dairy pizza, so people with special dietary needs will want to look elsewhere (and there are a fair amount of gluten-free and vegan pizza options in DC that you can try instead). I wasn't sure that the pizza would be good enough for the price, but I'll get several meals out of it, and those meals will be a great way to spend a quarantine. read more