My plan was simple, go to Cheeseboat on Friday night, order a Khachapuri and some Khinkali, and call it an evening. When I got to the Williamsburg location and observed the door locked, lights off, and the interior like nobody was there (with no indication there would be no one coming), I was crestfallen. This restaurant defined popular Georgian food. It is one of the reasons I make a trek out to a neighborhood that I would not otherwise dare set foot in for more than an extended period of time. When I observed they also have a Manhattan location, I figured, okay, try them out, what the hell, maybe it will be fine.
Three subway lines later (okay, I could have done it in two), and here is the result.
Firstly, the service is amazing. The entire wait staff is warm, welcoming, intelligent, and passionate about what is served out of their kitchen. Liza may not be working here (or at least was not there during the time I was here), but the service is still first rate.
Secondly, the interior space is more intimate than the Williamsburg location. It feels more Manhattan-y than Williamsburg-y, if that makes sense.
Now that I got the non-food stuff out of the way, here comes the part you came for, the meal. I ordered five things here. You will see why later, it will make sense to you by the end.
Khachapuri: My new favorite snack is a must at any Georgian restaurant. To say this is a calzone or a stromboli is being condescending to this lovely cheeseboat (had to do it). It is a little on the small side, but the cheese and texture is beautiful and I never once had to pick up a fork to eat it. Your server will even mix everything for you if you ask. Grade: A-
Khinkali: Six to an order, just like at the Williamsburg location, they are tasty, but it is looser. They fall apart too quickly upon that first nibble. I know not to eat the knot, because when my server took my plate away after I was done eating them, he smiled wryly at me, knowing I did it right. Grade: B
Chakapuli: Probably the weakest thing I ordered, the lamb is tasty, but also super fatty and super tender. I deliberately did not eat the sauce and some of the other bits because of the richness and the onions that were at the bottom of the dish. The fact it comes with two nice pieces of bread helps mitigate things, but I played it smart by just taking the big stuff and using the bread as a binder. Grade: B-
Kharcho: A staple at any Georgian restaurant, this is essentially Lagman soup, but they use rice instead of noodles as their carb weapon of choice. The lamb is beautiful and the broth has a beautiful aroma and fragrance. It also comes with two nice pieces of bread to really soak in more flavor. This balanced out the out of balance Chakapuli. Grade: B+
Georgian White Wine Flight: Yes, I got a flight, four glasses of the restaurant's finest white wines. I had a glass for each of the meals that I ate. Each wine has its own character. My server even gave me a suggestion on how to go about drinking them. I know very little about wine, so I will not go much further than this. However, each wine I tasted, tasted better than the previous one. I do know Georgia is known for its wine, and by the end of the flight, I was starting to see why... maybe. Grade: A-
That is not all. I also ordered a Honey Cake for dessert, because I know all too well that honey is the great equalizer in all things savory. This will put it all in its place, like Godzilla restoring the balance in an inhumane world.
Honey Cake: One bite told me all I needed to know. It is outstanding. Well balanced, terrific flavor, outstanding texture, ridiculously, out of bounds in terms of how it should look and feel. This dessert may have ruined all things dessert for me for the time being. It is simply the best way to end a meal, and to go out on a high note. Grade: A+
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Some of you may be saying, why would you do this? Why would you go all the way out here for this? 1.) Because I can, 2.) The experience is largely outstanding, and 3.) It is not always about those two, it is the adventure, and eating what I ate here gave me a sense of adventure, from start to finish.
Stay classy Cheeseboat, I know you will be just fine until the Williamsburg location reopens, if it ever does.
If not, your Manhattan location will do you justice. read more