As a huge fan of Naha - it's my favorite restaurant in Chicago - I am very excited that Carrie and Michael have opened a new concept and I was eager to check it out.
My dining companion and I ate dinner early (6pm reservation) on a Sunday night. I'll start by saying the service was very good - I have no complaints about that. It was unrushed, very informative when asked to be, and very pleasant. It seems to me that with Brindille, Carrie may be aiming for 2-Michelin-star status, and I think the service component of that is on the right track. I think there's a little room for polish, but for the short length of time they've been open they're clearly doing the right things when it comes to service and I have no complaints at all about that.
We started with the frog legs for him and for me the broccoli soup. I loved the soup - I think the soups at Naha are awesome and I"m glad to see that skillset made it here, too. The frog legs were nicely pan-fried. They came with a blanc-manger, which I guess they should be dipped in, because the legs themselves were only very lightly seasoned.
For the main course, we had the monkfish tail and the guinea fowl. My dining companion ate the monkfish tail and it was quite substantial, with a lot of good, meaty fish on the bones, and a lot of flavor with the vegetables that came with it.
I had the guinea fowl based on the waiter's recommendation and, to be honest, it was quite disappointing. My biggest complaint was that it was on the cool side of room temperature. It wasn't exactly cold, and it didn't really help that the A/C system was blowing cool air directly from the ceiling onto our table, but it wasn't what I'd consider to be an ideal eating temperature. It also seemed like a bunch of unrelated items on a plate instead of a cohesive dish. The monkfish had a lot of things, too, but they all interacted well together - that wasn't the case with the guinea fowl. The cockcombs didn't seem to add anything. The morels were overpowered by the cooking liquid and quite acidic and just sopping, squishy things - not the more firm, mushroomy ones I enjoy. I would not order the guinea fowl again - for this level of dining it was, in my opinion, a disasterous dish. I know they can do better, and I'm confident they will, but this dish, as served to me, was a terrible showing.
Finally, for dessert we had the Paris-Brest of strawberries, and the roasted pineapple. The strawberries were very nice - we both enjoyed those. The pineapple was ok, although I guess I expected it to be roasted further than it was. There weren't any of the complex caramel flavors I would expect seeing "roasted" in a description of a fruit dessert. It was nice, it just didn't live up to what I would consider its full potential. But, for all I know, that was the goal with the dish, to be lightly roasted and still have some of those fresh, brighter flavors pineapple brings to the table.
All in all, I will almost certainly be back after a few months to see how things are progressing. The guinea fowl was a real disappointment, there were a couple other things I think will improve with time, but overall I was satisfied with the meal.
My dining companion was not an experienced fine dining gourmand, and is always complaining he doesn't understand why people pay so much for fancy food. But he managed to enjoy himself, which I think speaks to the fine service we received and that most of the dishes were well-executed. read more