In short: A fantastic, fairly relaxed downtown place for small plates and drinks.
In long: An interesting combination of contradictions. What jumps out most might not be so much a contradiction as it is a rare combination--the front of the house seems breathlessly hipster, but the kitchen is earnestly sincere about cranking out great food. Not necessarily a paradox, and maybe more common than I realize, but it just struck me funny having every color of the hipster rainbow reflected in the waitstaff (fedora guy, zip-up tracksuit guy, ringer t girl, slightly overdressed girl) with such tender loving care showing on the menu.
To be clear, the waitstaff were all super nice to everybody, and great at their jobs, but their sartorial approach was nothing if not drenched in irony, where the kitchen seemed more intent to wear their hearts on their sleeves. Every dish on the list showed creative flair and a desire to put together a broad selection that would appeal to everybody, particularly those who are not easily wowed. Not an easy feat, especially when focusing on smaller portions and (relatively) lower prices. They do a great job of getting entrees onto small plates--the oxtails are three rounds alone on a plate, the pork belly is 4 satays, and so on. No side dishes.
And virtually everything out of the kitchen was exceptional. Aside from some surprisingly understated kimchee (with the pork belly), everything was explosively flavored and arrived at the table in perfect shape. You order a passel of small plates and they just start showing up when they're ready, which helps assure that you see them at their best. We had cumin lamb, house sausage, oysters on the half shell, flatbread, and a couple other dishes I can't remember, in addition to the ones already named. Everything was worth ordering again and again, and five of us didn't even get halfway through the menu.
They make a show--from the name to the prominence of the rather utilitarian bar--of emphasizing the drinks here. The menu shows that too, listing specialty cocktails, wine, and beer before food. Maybe that's where the hipster thing comes in, via the specialty cocktail angle. I dunno. Anyway, the drinks get lots of the spotlight here. We had cocktails on the table as well as beers; the beer list is nice but very short. The wines looked pretty interesting. But for my money the real stars here are the small plates.
They're very conscientious about combining a welcoming atmosphere with a minimalist design aesthetic. Plain painted wall, plain brick wall, plain painted wall painted a different color. Little niches and shelves with little candles. Very clean, contemporary, and spare, but oddly homey at the same time, as it goes. Maybe it's the lighting. Take, for example, the stall in the men's room. Nice privacy door with good height to block unwelcome prying eyes, and a nice warm amber bulb set about knee level. So, if you happen to be standing while in the stall, your junk is backlit and thrown into relief. A Hollywood moment, for some of us.
Bottom line? A very well-run and welcoming place that's serious about the pleasures of casual drinking and dining. read more