Wow, what else can I say about Sun Tung Lok? I remember growing up in Tsim Sha Tsui as a kid and this used to be the de facto place that my dad used to take us out to for special treats. Times have changed and the restaurant closed down at the last major recession. It tried reopening a couple times and failed but now it finally seemed to settle down at the relatively swanky looking MIramar shopping centre 4th floor near the other Michillen starred Din Tai Fung.
This latest incarnation managed to score a coveted Michellin 3 stars back in 2011 but quickly got demoted down to 2 stars (still not too shabby) in 2012 and stayed at 2 stars for the last couple of years. There is no question that the quality of food here is incredibly high, but so are their prices. It is possible to go over $15,000 HK (about $2000 US!!!) per person on food alone with NO ALCOHOL, while there are other restaurants that cost you an arm and a leg here in Hong Kong, Sun Tung Lok has to rank as one of the top few if not the MOST EXPENSIVE restaurant.
The suckling pig here is something else. Now, the normal cantonese style suckling pigs dish uses only the crispy roasted skin, the fat can be rather thick under the skin and this could be a fairly heavy dish. HERE however, what looks like a thick unappetizing layer of FAT under the skin is actually SHRIMP PASTE!!!! Not only is this dish NOT fatty, it is FUCKING delicious and flavourful! I couldn't believe it when I first put THIS SHIT in my mouth!
The "Tung Sing" garoupa (grouper to you YANKS) slices on pomelo "skin" (actually they only use the white soft part between the rough outer skin and the actually citrus fruit) with shrimp roe is another standout. The "Tung Sing" (eastern star) variety of garoupa is one of the most expensive fish that is popular in cantonese cuisine. Many people actually prefer the pomelo "skin" and there are several other less expensive options of this same dish sans the fish. My sisters for instance, prefer the pomelo "skin" over the fish but I find the contrast of textures and flavours a vital part of this dish, and frankly I am in the minority of my family in my preference of the fish.
The baked crab shell is actually a western style dish that is very popular in Hong Kong, the cantonese version of this uses a lot less cheese than the western version, the herbs are also more Chinese than western, though the finely diced onions and mushrooms are still used. I love the balance of the ingredients and have to admit that I prefer the Chinese baked crab shell to the western version, the mushrooms really shines in this dish and I love the small amount of cheese that was used.
The deep fried crab claws here is surprisingly light on the fat and grease, I have no idea what they put in the crab paste that makes the filling, but the thing is damned delicious!
The night we visited the place we've had sharks fin soups 3 nights in a row, so we went for the more modest soup of the night which turned out to be a burdock (a cheaper cousin of ginseng that is NOWHERE near as bitter) and pork/ham hock soup. You can taste that the soup has been cooked for at least 4 to 5 hours, as the essence from the bones and meat was evident in the yummy broth.
I liked the steamed chicken and mushrooms on egg though my sisters didn't, complaining that the dish tasted too much of the chinese cooking wine, but that is exactly why I enjoyed it so much.
The braised beef rib steak is another western style dish that has been co-opted by Sun Tung Lok, this shit is tender as fuck and reminded of the excellent Hot Stuff Cafe, the up-scale Hong Kong/Taiwan style cafe in San Gabriel that sadly closed it's door a couple of years ago. They served the most tender rib steak in red wine sauce and the chef used to cook at a Ritz-Carlton. Most of the western style preparation uses a red wine or burgundy sauce, but here they use a very rich gravy.
The piece de resistance of the night was the crab and glass noodles hot pot, the sauce is mainly sweet soy sauce based and again this dish has been cooked for a fair amount of time. The glass noodles are incredibly flavourful while the crab remained incredibly tender. I normally hate chinese crab but I still had a few pieces here.
Subsequent investigation on openrice.com revealed that the 3 top dishes are actually the suckling pig skin, house special gold and silver rice sheet roll (only available as dim sum), and the beef rib steak. One of these days I'd have to make my way back at lunch time to try the rice sheet roll.
I'd really love to give Sun Tung Lok a 5 star review but the outrageous prices on some of their items forced me to dock them 1 star, which is a pity. read more