The Chairman! Luckily has nothing to do with the CCP schmucks in charge up in Beijing, nor does it have anything to do with some communist Panda bear in San Francisco that operates out of a truck and selling dbag style pork belly bun sliders (come to think of it, Bao Wow in Wanchai did a way better job than Chairman/Chairman Bao SF!!!)
The Chairman 大班樓, has won many accolades in recent years, with their most noteworthy accomplishment of a Michelin star (only to have lost it this year). There are a few other factors going against this place....the space is small, so if you don't reserve a month (weekday) or two months (weekend) in advance, you are pretty much hosed. The restroom is small (one only) and in a semi inconvenient spot in the restaurant. So what do they do to ante up? Easy....service and food quality/execution.
The philosophy and MO of the restaurant is simple. I dare say this is one of a kind for HK, very locavore in nature. It is this insistence on going out of the way to procure and use quality local and artisan ingredients/raw materials and cooking skill to create unique dishes that reflect "original flavor, original taste 原汁原味". They also don't serve shark fin, abalone, fish maw, sea cucumber. It is possible to achieve upper class Cantonese good fine dining without resorting to those ingredients, and The Chairman has achieved that.
Took some dear friends visiting from San Francisco earlier this year, made the reservation a couple months in advance via email. Danny (in charge) is extremely helpful, and Simon the manager helped create our tasting menu with some substitutions and personal requests when I went to the restaurant a week before.
Let's see what I remember
龍井菊花煙薰乳鴿 (Dragonwell and Chrysanthemum tea smoked squab) - ridiculously awesome. Never knew tea smoke squab could be done like this. And I thought Lung Wah Shatin squab was da shiznit...
chilled marinated tomato and pickled turnip (沙葛) - looks very simple and one can't help but wonder how they infused the flavor of basil into the tomato. Refreshing!
馬友鹹魚煎肉餅 (salted threadfin pan fried pork patty) - quality salted fish (threadfin 馬友) from Tai O, paired with pork, pan fried and shaped into delicate patties. Intense flavor. Salted fish fans should not miss this rendition.
chilled ox tongue cubes with spices/herbs and aged black vinegar - a very interesting contrast of flavors with a nice textured cubes of ox tongue (some pieces have a little fat in them, delicious!), rounded off with an almost balsamic vinegar like taste...(likely a local artisan made aged black vinegar)
Double boiled soup of the day - honestly I do not remember what was inside. Pork, melon, 無花果 (dried Chinese fig?) which elevated the sweetness level. Incredible stuff, yet on a different level than Ser Wong Fun's soups.
And the raison d'etre / piece de resistance....and apparently if you do not order or have this, you have not really been to the Chairman. 雞油花雕蒸大花蟹配陳村粉.
Steamed medium sized (2+ catty) flower/blue crab with a sauce made of chicken lard, huadiao liquor sauce (it's a variant of Shaoxing wine), with a bed of fresh ho fun noodles (a variant called Chan Village noodles, strangely resembles Vietnamese banh cuon!). If you like liquor flavor, this is for you. Hands down the best dish of the evening, intense crab flavor. The quality of the ingredients plus the cooking skill make this one of the finest HK has to offer.
Shrimp three flavors fried rice (shrimp, dried shrimp, dried shrimp block)
三蝦炒飯 (蝦,蝦膏,蝦乾). The flavors of Tai O plus fresh shrimp. Can't be beat. Shrimp roe sprinkled on top would have made it four flavors! Stellar.
羊肚菌炆腐皮 - this is a wild Chinese mushroom with dried bean curd sheet braised dish. Strictly vegetarian but is spectacular. The beancurd sheet was procured daily from 樹記 in Sham Shui Po (sadly closed down due to family dispute!). Very lucky to have had this.
There was a beef brisket dish that was not bad, but not as noteworthy.
Dessert: 杞子雪糕 / 杏仁茶(Goji berry ice cream, grounded Chinese almond tea). Absolutely stunning. The combination of the two and their textures, were of a nice contrast, light, sweet, and refreshing. Loved the almond tea which didn't have that slight bitter taste in many other renditions.
Service was very attentive and our server Atra was friendly, helpful, and courteous. After chatting with him, we learned that he served Seiji Yamamoto (of 3 Michelin star Ryugin) on his way to the airport without realizing it. I told him "Dude, that's Aaron Kwok of the J-food world!" and joked that he should have taken a selfie with him. He also told us the story of how they lost their Michelin star (his theory), and visits by Pierre Gagnaire, Robuchon, and a few other famous chefs. Fergus Henderson dropped by earlier this summer as well.
Well done, Chairman. We are very impressed.
Until next time! read more