Verjus
I visited Verjus for the first time in April 2014. I have travelled extensively in France for 20 years, enjoying all manner of local, regional, and seasonal fare in restaurants modest and grand. I am a true believer in the French approach to cuisine, be it a mom-and-pop seafood joint on the coast or haut cuisine in Paris or Lyon.
But if I had to recommend a must-do restaurant to the first-time (or seasoned) traveler to Paris, it would be Vergus.
Why?
Simply because this restaurant represents a very happy distillation of the ideals of haut cuisine without a sliver or pretense. The restaurant itself is small and unpretentious, the menu is aways a prix fixe menu degustation, which simply means that everybody in the restaurant is partaking of the same 7 or 8 courses that the chef has selected for the day. While in most gastrominque restaurants, such a menu would require four hours and 120€ at least, but at Verjus it's a modest two hours and 60€ per person. I would recommend going for the wine pairings for an additional 40€ per person because you get the benefit of experiencing six new wines matched to the course for the price of a decent bottle of Bourgogne.
A lot of travelers will recoil at the prix fixe concept, preferring the option of choosing items they might be familiar with from a menu with lots of choices. If that's your preference, this restaurant isn't for you.
But in my experience, some of my most other-worldly dining experiences have been when I've been at the mercy of the chef. Some discoveries I haven't warmed up to - escargots, grenouille for example--but others have become perennial favorites: moules and lotte in any incarnation, duck confit, all manner of velouté, for example.
My recent experience at Verjus started with a slice of marinated raw trout augmented with wild fennel and sweet unions and trout roe. If I saw this on a menu I probably wouldn't order it, but it was divine. Not a large portion, but exquisitely satisfying.
This was followed by a small pasta dish (cappaletti) with asparagus with frisée and grilled nuts. Fabulous.
Next came four clams from Mont St. Michel with morille mushrooms (why are these unavailable in the US?) in a luscious bullion.
Getting into the "main" courses, there was the most memorable magret de canard, with a little bit of red cabbage, a tiny presence of fresh orange, and smoked celery. Now a lot of people wouldn't order duck from the menu, but this was enormously satisfying, rich without being gamey, and I appreciated the "fresh" nod to duck à l'orange" made famous several generations ago at places like Tour d'Argent.
Then came the house-made lamb sausage. Again, a lot of people stick solely to beef and fear that lamb is too rustic, but in this incarnation the flavors of the sausage were moderated by the roasted garlic polenta slices with mushrooms and salsify.
The cheese plate is optional, at an extra 7€ per person, and some people don't get the French love of cheese to finish a meal. And in some restaurants, it's too big of a deal so late in the meal. But here, it's a brief seasonal selection of regional cheeses, and again this is a chance to discover new delights. I am now looking for a local source of Ossau-Iraty, a cheese I'd never heard of.
Dinner is finished with two "desserts", one a granité des pommes with panna cotta, and the other a dense vanilla ice cream with a tiny chocolate cake.
Now it might sound like too much food, but it's not. Here, the emphasis in on small, superbly presented portions, each offered with a brief explanation, but then, unlike restaurants grastonomique, there is not a 20-minute wait for the next course. It's not rushed, but it's not drawn out, either. Just right.
For two people, with wine pairings and the cheese plate, it comes to 214€. This is a true bargain. You can get the same quality at a Paul Robuchon or Guy Savoy restaurant, but you will pay a lot more and spend a lot more time inspecting the environs.
No, Vergus is the perfect introduction to modern French haut cuisine, without the baggage of the past. The décor is casual, but the food is serious. When I was there, there were two seatings, one at 7:30 and one at 9:30; nothing in between. But once you accept the concept of the restaurant, that makes perfect sense. read more