With a late noodle lunch at Michigan Noodle and other bites in between we eschewed our dinner plans on New Year's Day and again ended up with French Pastries in an overly crowded locale, this time at Thierry in the trendy Downtown shopping area featuring the likes of Gucci, Ferragamo, and Louis Vuitton amongst others. With options limited due to the holiday but seating and parking limited even at 8:30pm when we arrived I can only say that what followed, in all ways, was nothing more than average and overpriced.
Billing itself as a "modern café elegantly designed to evoke the Parisian sentiments of Chef Thierry's native France" I have to say the décor at Thierry was quite nice from the exterior and on entering we were greeted by large globe lights suspended from the ceiling like tear-drops, wood tables, plethoric displays of chocolates and candies, and large display cases filled with nicely arranged items all around - all of it very much like Fauchon Paris but minus the charm and the quiet as espresso machines hummed and the jam packed café presented a veritable shouting match of couples trying to be heard.
Undeterred by the cacophony and with a single two-top that seemed to be clearing my aunt and I approached the counter while my mother and sister procured a table and with a request to "just order whatever you like and we'll share" we took to the task of making our selections - four pastries, four macarons, and three drinks that would be prepared, plated, and poured quite quickly and left to our own balancing act and navigational skills to return to our table through the 2-3 inch spaces between tables.
Beginning first with a trio of beverages my first taste of Thierry would be an awful one in the form of the single worst Americano I have ever tasted - a double shot that one could have added a half cup of sugar to and still found profoundly bitter, acidic, and unpalatable - a drink so bad that I actually returned it for a refund and opted for water instead. Fairing slightly better, my sister's $9 Bailey's and Coffee at least acted to temper the acidity with the smoothness of the Bailey's while my Aunt's $7 Liquid Drinking Chocolate would prove by far the best beverage of the three with subtle fruity notes coming through on the palate and light caramel tones detectable on the tongue of a glass so large it was easily shared by the four of us and would have likely been far too much for one.
Moving on to the pastries we started with a quartet of macarons in the interesting flavors of Pumpkin, Chestnut, Gingerbread, and Key Lime Macaron but unfortunately whether it was due to the late hour or to their method of preparation each was far too pasty and gummy to be truly memorable save for the Chestnut which tasted every bit its namesake with light notes of smoky sweetness and a creamy filling that tasted like chestnut pudding condensed.
Moving on to the larger composed desserts and knowing my mother's love of lemon I ordered her a slice of the Lemon Tarte and although generally not my favorite dessert this version would actually prove to be the best thing we had all night at Thierry with the light lemon curd providing plenty of sweet to balance the sour and a light milky mouthfeel that complimented the buttery shortbread crust.
Moving next to my selection, the Baba Savarin I was part surprised and part disappointed in this presentation for largely unrelated reasons. Beginning first with the pastry, a well crafted baba with a spongy interior soaked to the core with simple syrup juxtaposing light and mild cream, the dish got off to a great start but where it lacked was largely in my expectation - the expectation that a proper baba should include at least some note of liquor while this particular version seemingly had none, instead adding just a touch of nuance with hints of citrus and a touch of candied tangerine. Good, sure. $6 good, not even close.
For the final tastes of the evening - both chocolate and ordered by my sister and aunt respectively - the "Chocolate Trio - white, dark and milk chocolate mousse" and "Chocolate Succe - hazelnut meringue, chocolate mousse and 70% chocolate ganache" would both prove to be alright but somewhat expected - the first a sort of mousse layer cake with various cocoa tones throughout and a crisp chocolate tuille atop and the second something like an unfrozen Klondike bar replacing the ice cream with meringue and the same mousse as the trio. Respectable, but nothing to write home about when the bill came out at more than $60 to sit four people at a two top while listening to the girls next to us gossip about facebook. read more