Thank God for the Senator.
As foodies we lurch from trend to trend, our consciences flowering and withering with the seasons. In summer and fall, we pig out on local and sustainable food. By winter, we realize that we live in Canada, and the only local food is ice, which will keep our drinks fresh but otherwise provide cold comfort. We flit around the globe and flirt with regional cuisines, debating the authenticity of our city's reproductions despite never setting foot outside the continent. It's fun, but occasionally demanding.
Sometimes you just want a good burger, salad or mildly greasy breakfast, and that's what the Senator delivers; quickly, and with a smile.
The Senator's breakfast is legendary. Basic food groups are all represented; protein, carbs, bacon, more bacon, and other stuff that I don't care about. A request for burnt bacon results in properly crispy curlicues that shatter on contact with my fork, splintering into perfectly over-easy eggs, through which I drag slices of challah toast. Good homefried potatoes, Baked beans and token fruit garnish make up the rest of the plate. It's nothing I couldn't make at home, but tastes so much better because all I had to do was roll out of bed and choose the right direction on the subway.
The lunch/dinner menu sticks to reliable favourites. Grilled cheese arrives on more challah; sunny orange melting into dense egg bread, which in turn is fried to a golden crisp. It comes with salad or fries. Both are good, but you didn't come here for salad, did you?
If you did, you're better off with a roaring garlic Caesar, or the Cobb, which with it's combination of iceberg, tomato, bacon, blue cheese, chicken and avocado, may just be nature's most perfect food. An appetizer wedge salad riffs on many of the same flavours. in summer, the travel-hearty lettuce is a subtle rebuke to effete local baby organic kissy kissy shmoopypants mesclun blends.
Yes, I just questioned the manhood of salad greens.
A Monte Cristo sandwich is surprisingly light, while the club features in-house roasted, slightly overcooked chicken, and more of that fabulous bacon with fresh tomatoes on more challah. Burgers are just damn beefy good. To write more would do an injustice to this noble former cow.
Fish and chips covers a massive plate. Cole slaw is puckeringly sour, but a good contrast to beer batter and lovely thin fries. The fish itself is fresh; two pieces make for a massive dinner. Macaroni and cheese is never as good as homemade, but not for want of trying. The full-of-stuff version is a rare departure from the menu's penchant for classics. While bacon, mushrooms and caramelized onions do wonders for burgers, they make my inner five year old-you know, the one who would pay more than ten bucks for a plate of noodles in cheese sauce-weep. Stick to the basic version. Get a salad on the side so you can say you ate your vegetables.
Coffee varies from dishwater to delicious, depending on who mans the pot. Unsweetened iced tea (a rarity in Toronto) renders it unnecessary. A pity that they charge for it by the glass. I yearn for a better refill policy.
Desserts vary, including fresh fruit pies in season. I'm sure they're delicious, but I rarely finish my main plate, much less order more.
You can't go wrong here. Simple food, served in a room steeped in diner history, by a family that once literally anchored Toronto's downtown. Let the neighbourhood change; whether surrounded by crumbling hotels and peeler bars, or hidden by futuristic condos and mega malls, I'll take the Senator just as it is. read more