We went back to Caruso's for a gratuitously nice end-of-summer date night, this time getting a 6:30…read moretable with a prime view. For some reason, the only option for that time slot was the chef's tasting menu, though I wonder if we could have plead down to the four-course if we'd called ahead. The restaurant wasn't especially busy, and I'm sure there was some flexibility in the bookings. The chef's tasting was pretty decadent for a Wednesday.
It was also a wonderful experience, a long dinner looking out at the beach, through sunset on a summer evening. Service was immaculate. Our waiter was fantastic, as was our sommelier Tre, a young guy with a clear passion for wine, who gave us handwritten recommendations for our upcoming trip to Paso Robles. We got the regional California wine pairing, and it was fun and educational, featuring several great wines that went well with our food.
Dinner started with the house antipasti, a spread of small, delicate dishes. My favorite was probably the spot prawn open face sandwich with kimchi and finger lime, though I also loved the compressed melon topped with uni and Tsar Nicoulai caviar. There was a Baja kanpachi cigar, garnished with caviar, a super-thin toast with prosciutto and fig, and a shot's worth of sour plum juice flavored with cinnamon. Real Michelin star stuff here, both in the ceremony and the execution.
Honestly, everything we ate was superb. The first larger course was the refreshing Cavaillon melon gazpacho with melon salad, feta snow, and an intricate melon rind tuille. Then we had a colorful Baja kanpachi crudo, silky raw fish arranged with shaved rhubarb, cucumber, avocado, pickled radish, pickled strawberry, and finger lime, with a strawberry aguachile sauce touched with serrano pepper. Next, we had Iron Chef tomato: tomato salad and tomato with panzanella; a sidecar of buffalo mozzarella and a "martini" of cool tomato water. Summery and light, with intensely concentrated tomato flavor. After that, bread service, house sourdough with ramp butter and Buellton olive oil.
Two pastas, both very Caruso's, Italian cooking extruded through Montecito. There was casoncelli alla Nerano, crescent-schaped pasta with crispy fried zucchini, provolone del Monaco, and pine nuts. Then spaghettini with Stephanie's uni (thank you very much), burrata, and a lush tomato sauce fortified with shrimp consommé.
We had the option of switching out our entrée courses for salmon and beef, for an extra charge. I don't know why one would do this with Channel Island white bass and Liberty duck as the default choices. Both were excellent, perfectly cooked. The bass came with Brentwood corn, chanterelles, and corn beurre a la nage, the duck--breast and sausage--with plum, in various forms, and sour prune sugo di cottura.
There was a vibrant green palate cleanser of basil sorbet with candied pistachios and pickled and fresh blackberries, exactly my kind of dessert. Then a more decadent brown butter cake with marinated Santa Barbara peaches, pine nuts, and fig gelato, finished with vinegar infused with peach and fig. Finally, an array of mignardises: a chocolate hazelnut bonbon, a fig tartlet with goat cheese, a strawberry pate de fruit with Thai chili, a chocolate truffle with raspberry powder, and a Tahitian vanilla cigar with coffee.
This was a special dinner, one I'd love to repeat in another few years. Next time, maybe we'll save Caruso's for a special occasion, but I'm glad we made the most of this lovely date night.