Funny enough, my friend Burgis, who's an excellent chef in Toronto, and I were recently talking…read moreabout gentrification and the wave of influencer-driven restaurants in the city, especially around King West. But he told me there was one exception: The Lunch Lady. Ever since that conversation, I'd been meaning to visit. With Mother's Day coming up, I decided it would be the perfect place to bring my mom, so I booked us a table.
Upon entering, we were warmly greeted by a friendly hostess. Our server was friendly overall albeit I was hoping for just a bit more attentiveness.
The restaurant itself was spotless, with a beautiful bar and an open-concept kitchen where you could watch the chefs expertly preparing each dish. We decided on the Bò Tái Chanh (beef carpaccio) to start, followed by the Cơm Chiên Cua (crab fried rice) and the Bò Lúc Lắc (8 oz ribeye steak).
The Bò Tái Chanh was incredibly refreshing. The thin slices of exceptionally fresh wagyu were delicate and satisfying, layered with an impressive depth of textures and flavours. The nuttiness and crunch from the peanuts and fried shallots played beautifully against the herbal brightness of mint, basil, and perilla, while the pickled onions and lemon vinaigrette added sweetness and acidity that tied everything together. The best way to enjoy it was with chopsticks, rolling each slice into little beef wraps bursting with flavour.
After the appetizer, there was about a 20-minute wait before the mains arrived together. The wait was worth it as they were absolutely PHENOMENAL.
The Cơm Chiên Cua was wonderful. The moment I took my first spoonful of rice mixed with the generous chunks of red crab, the aroma of the sea washed over me like an oceanic wave. Every bite of sweet crab meat and popping fish roe felt vibrant and alive, balanced by the grounded peppercorns, like stepping on the warm beach sand of Ho Coc near Ho Chi Minh City. My favourite bite was with the poached egg mixed in: creamy, oceanic, sweet, savoury, and lightly spicy all at once. It was an incredibly immersive dish like swimming in the Biển Đông. I also want to applaud the portion size - there was an abundance of both crab and rice, making the dish feel genuinely generous and fulfilling. If I had one small suggestion, it would simply be a touch more wok hei for added smokiness.
And then there was the Bò Lúc Lắc, a truly unforgettable dish.
Everything about it reflected an extraordinary understanding of balance, technique, and ingredient harmony. The lightly marinated ribeye was sous vide and grilled to a perfect medium rare, melting effortlessly in the mouth while delivering deep umami and subtle sweetness along the crust. The foie gras added richness, creaminess, and a gentle smokiness that elevated the steak even further.
What impressed me most, though, was how every component on the plate worked together. The watercress salad, lightly dressed in lemon vinaigrette, brought freshness, peppery bitterness, and acidity that cut beautifully through the richness of the steak and foie gras. The cassava chips were airy, crispy, and lightly spicy, adding both texture and contrast. Together, the dish delivered sweetness, saltiness, bitterness, acidity, spice, and umami in perfect balance.
Anthony Bourdain once described Lunch Lady in Saigon as "discovering new neighborhoods every few mouthfuls," and I'd say this dish felt like an entire world tour. There were clear influences and techniques drawing from Vietnam, France, Hong Kong, and South America, yet everything felt cohesive rather than excessive. It was one of the most impressive steak dishes I've had in Toronto, if not around the world.
To conclude, The Lunch Lady was an absolute sensation, and I truly think my mom had one of her best Mother's Days there. You can feel the vision and legacy of Nguyễn Thị Thanh (rest in peace) in the food, and the two executive chefs carrying that vision forward are doing something remarkable. We'll absolutely be back to explore more of the menu.
(Also, a special shoutout to the expo/sous chef who came out to speak with us and explain the dishes - it genuinely elevated the experience even further.)