It's telling that the drive to this diner was an experience in and of itself. Soaring through the streets of Warren and Swansea, flanked by woods and water, were just the beginning of a magical experience. Then came the destination: at first, I doubted myself because I thought I was just looking at a bakery. When I pulled into the parking lot and opened the front door, I finally began to understand what "hole-in-the-wall" truly meant.
Not only was the family ownership and honest-to-goodness service in place the minute I entered, but the sampling of lightly-seasoned bread with olive oil was the definitive way to begin dinner. When I came here last weekend with my stepbrother and his gf, I had finished a workout earlier that day, so the idea of a chicken parm dished mixed with bolognese sauce sounded killer; all of us had ordered that exact dish! Boy, was my hunch trustworthy. A comforting mix of seasonings, a breading with a well-done crispness around the edges, and a quality of meat that felt wholesome without being overbearing were the elements that comprised a hearty serving of cheese-stuffed ravioli.
The following Saturday, my mother and stepfather were more than happy to reserve seating (when you're a small restaurant with a penchant for legendary cooking, even the weekdays are bound to be packed). While my mother gorged on a plain chicken parm and my old man was enthused with his seafood platter, I dove into creamy pink vodka sauce and smoky sweet Italian sausage. The bacon-y flavor of the sausage complemented the sharp cheesiness of the broth, culminating in a spectacle of flavors that never stopped short of excellence.
While the Nutella-filled egg dessert I had on the first day was nice, I was told that most of the offerings provided in the bakery were crafted by a Boston-based confectioner. What was homemade, however, was a fruity pie carefully designed and baked by the proprietor's wife. The crostata, as it was called, tasted just as scrumptious as the description of apples and raspberries and gooey gelato that I had been provided.
One of the reasons I support small is because there's no conglomerate overreach to corrupt the flavors a competitive small-town scene can offer, which Spaghetti Lane perfectly embodied. When Mike the founder had been so uplifted by vocal enthusiasm for his business, he was generous to provide me with a Spaghetti Lane-branded shirt. I told him he truly did not have to offer such a generous gift, but I thanked him nonetheless afterward.
I must also point out the ambience of the restaurant. The place was comprised of two dining rooms: one of which leaned into the elegance of Italian spirits stacked neatly on shelves and the hypersonic drift of Italo Disco filling the air, the other was a contemporary-style cafe setting with a dessert cashier and a giant cabinet lined with cannoli, cheesecake, and whoopie pies. For some reason, my soul lit up when I heard the Umberto Tozzi version of "Gloria" as I was chomping on my penne. Now that's a vibe.
That's my TED Talk. Thank you, everyone! read more