One could very easily walk by Samurai Mama without a second thought as to what lies within the colorful noren hanging over the entrance to this warm and atmospheric dining den. That, however, especially to a hungry traveler, would be a huge mistake. Upon first entry, a communal table majorly dominates the front dining room, which is bordered by high-seated booths and enclaved group seating arrangements, giving the impression of an ancient resutoran, all wood blocks and lantern lights.
The beverage list covered four pages, mostly sake offerings, but with options of wine, red white and rose, as well as some Japanese beer offerings, the Coedo Beniaka - a sweet potato flavored Happoshu - being a particular favorite of one of my beer enthusiast friends. The Sauvignon Blanc I ordered was light and crisp with flowery overtones, a wonderful start to the food that soon followed.
You would not go wrong ordering a few of their starters as the entrees are almost exclusively udon. First to with that, my spicy bukkake udon - a cold noodle dish topped with well-spiced ground beef and sided by a creamy dashi-broth and soft-boiled egg - served to excite the palate while substantiating it outside of the udon soups my dining partners received. One ordered the Wagyu udon and left impressed with the confidence exhibited by the kitchen letting the high-quality grade beef enter the table rare and slowly cook itself within the piping hot dashi-broth, his egg perfectly poached albeit a little runny for taste. The Ebi Tempura Udon was the other entree ordered, and was met without any complications.
The appetizers were something to really write home about: we sampled the pork belly, garlic chicken, gyoza, and the hot pepper tsukudani roll, all of which were excellent. Starting with the least of them, the garlic chicken, was an almost unbelievably moist Japanese take on fried chicken, but really left something to be desired from its simplicity, whereas the gyoza shattered all expectations I have built throughout my life for the appreciation of these little flavor-filled packets. Baked into a cast iron skillet, these dumplings had an edgy sear necessary for the structural integrity and piecemeal enjoyment of what some might call a bland dish. In my mind, to what level there is a nuance of flavor allowed in such a seminal starter, Samurai Mama certainly has mastered its art. The Tsukudani was excellent, but possibly overpowered by the flavors of the other dishes at the table. It was, however, the first dish served, and thus worked well in that manner. The Pork Belly was a past favorite of my friends who frequent this restaurant for Japanese food regularly, and was met with salivated applause. As someone relatively inexperienced in the dish, I will go only as far to say that it was the best Pork Belly, by far, that I have ever tasted.
Now, to the reason that this review, clearly exemplary in what has been written so far, ended up losing my five-star rating. I can only speak for myself, and my dining partners who are both long-time New Yorkers, and the table sitting next to us whose dinner almost ended up in a shouting match, when I say that for a restaurant of this quality and volume, to make no mention nor warning of the fact that they are cash only, YES READ THIS CASH ONLY, is, frankly, embarrassing. Of all the good vibes that had been fostered throughout the meal itself, minus a trifling surprise exhibited by the fact that our waiter never did once check in on us throughout the meal, being told after the bill of well over one hundred dollars hit the table that there is a cash only policy and an ATM in the back of the restaurant, which is procured and run by the restaurant itself, put a dampener on the tail end of what was otherwise an exquisite dining experience. Let me be clear, I am as understanding of cash only policies as the next guy, for small businesses with small purchases the lack of them can be stifling, but for an establishment such as this, is crude and sophomoric.
Please, Samurai Mama, change this policy as soon as you can. For those of you looking for some of the best Japanese food in Northern Brooklyn, stop by without a reservation and bring plenty of dolla dolla bills. read more