The Restaurant at Ponte is undeniably set in beautiful surroundings, but the current menu lacks the…read morefocus and technical consistency expected at this price point.
The meal opened with a complimentary amuse-bouche: thick cucumber slices topped with a vegetable "succotash," feta, balsamic glaze, and an assertive seasoning. It was visually pleasant but confused on the palate. The feta and balsamic dominated the first impression, only to give way to an indistinct seasoning that overwhelmed the delicate vegetables. Rather than awakening the palate, the bite exhausted it.
The $22 scallop crudo was the most significant technical failure of the meal. The citrus-marinated scallops had become remarkably tough and chewy--closer to bubblegum than the tender, clean texture one expects from crudo. The accompanying passion fruit reduction was the strongest flavor on the plate, but it was extraordinarily thick and rich, resembling a fruit curd or concentrated dessert base. I remarked at the table that cream could be added, the mixture churned, and it could be served quite successfully as passion fruit ice cream. That may have made an excellent dessert; beneath scallops, however, it was heavy and misplaced. The remaining components, including the cucumber, offered little seasoning or balance.
The black mussels were described as being served with tomato, red curry, coconut, and white wine broth. What arrived was primarily a tomato-based preparation with only a vague suggestion of curry in the background. The aromatic complexity expected from Thai red curry--particularly the warmth and fragrance of ingredients such as galangal--was absent. The result tasted less like red curry and more like a mussel-only interpretation of cioppino.
Curiously, the highlight of the meal was the complimentary bread and scallion dip: simple, cohesive, and more satisfying than either of the dishes we ordered.
The manager ultimately apologized, telling us, "It's my restaurant, it's my fault." I respected his willingness to take ownership. More revealingly, however, he assured us that the menu is already being revamped toward a more traditional Italian concept.
That forthcoming change became the defining detail of the experience. It suggests management is aware that the existing menu--currently moving among Italian, Thai, Moroccan, Californian, and other influences without a convincing culinary through-line--is not working. But guests are paying for the menu being served today, not the more focused restaurant being promised for the future. If the shortcomings are already recognized internally, dishes with clear problems in conception and execution should not continue leaving the kitchen unchanged.
The setting has considerable potential, and the manager's accountability was appreciated. Unfortunately, the food itself was disjointed, inconsistently executed, and disappointing.
We will return, but I would wait for the announced menu overhaul before considering the WHEN.