Pilar's Tamales recently appeared on Yelp's top tamales and horchata lists for the state of Michigan. After seeing these a couple of weeks ago, I made it a priority to try them out. Upon entering the store only about an hour before they closed, we were greeted warmly by the proprietress, Sylvia. She was fantastic and was able to easily answer all of our questions about the menu. Since we went pretty late, they had only a limited selection of tamales left. We went with Sylvia's recommendations. The food took about 20 minutes to come out in total - I guess everything is made fresh per order in the kitchen.
Tamales ($5 each) - We got one chicken, one pork, and one jalapeno and cheese of these Salvadoran-style tamales. This was the first time trying this style of tamale and we were quite surprised at how soft and tender the masa dough is - almost bordering on mushy. It's like the texture of a potato cooked all the way through. It's so different from a typical Mexican tamale that I had to look up how these are made afterwards - it's basically a very liquidy masa batter which is poured into the wrapper, typically banana leaf. The interior ingredients are added to the top, then the wrapper is rolled, closed, and the entire construction is steamed. This is totally unlike a Mexican tamale, which is more of a masa dough that is smeared on a corn husk and rolled around the ingredients. Flavor-wise, I found only a bit of light savoriness probably from meat or vegetable stock mixed in. There's a bit of vegetable aroma, almost like the fragrance of a mire poix.
For the Pork Tamale: The Interior is nice, with whole green olives, capers, a bit of tomato, and the pork. The ingredients all work well together. The pork is ripped into shreds and is overall kind of dry. (2/5)
For the Chicken Tamale: There's quite a bit of potato added inside, approaching something like 1/3 of the filling. The potato is tender and pretty much exactly the same texture as the masa. In addition, there are two olives inside, one stuffed, with pimento, capers, and chicken completing the ingredients. The chicken is pretty typical pulled chicken and kind of dry. (2/5)
For the Jalapeno & Cheese - The masa in this one is quite a bit more firm compared to the other two, I guess because the cheese helps firm up the batter. Jalapeno is mixed into the masa but overall the tamale is basically not spicy at all. (3/5)
I'll be honest - I didn't really like the tamales too much. I didn't particularly like the texture, I thought the flavors were a bit muted, and I thought the fillings, especially the meat was too dry. Salvadoran tamales are typically wrapped in banana leaf, but these were wrapped in parchment paper and foil. That already makes a huge difference in aroma and flavor just by itself. I was so conflicted about this that I decided to go to the local Salvadoran hangout spot in SW Detroit the following day to try and see if it's just because I don't like this style of tamale in general, or because I don't like the tamale from Pilar's. After trying those tamales, I can safely say that the tamales at Pilar's are bland in comparison and the fillings just aren't as good. The only thing that was the same is the texture. In addition, the tamales here cost 50% more than the other place. (2/5)
Loroco and Cheese Pupusa ($6) - I had never eaten loroco before and I was excited to try this out. It kind of reminds me of artichoke in texture with a very slight vegetal flavor that's hard to describe. It's chopped up quite fine and there isn't too much mixed into the cheese. The cheese is nice, but again, there's not a lot of filling in general. The exterior has a nice fresh masa flavor, but it's quite thick and there are multiple areas where there's no filling. The size is a little smaller than other pupusas I've had and the roundness is a little too perfect, making me wonder if the pupusa is machine made or maybe cut with a cookie cutter. I also got pupusas (including loroco) at the SW Detroit market/restaurant and found those to be much better and much cheaper ($3.50 vs. $6 here) (2/5)
Each order comes with a large side of curtido and salsa.
Curtido - Pink pickled cabbage and sliced carrots add a nice tang and acidity.
Salvadorean Salsa - A very nice savory tomato based sauce. This is more like a gravy or sauce vs. a salsa, very typical of Salvadoran salsa as I read later. There is no spice, which is expected for the cuisine.
Horchata, Large ($5.50) - Large is a 16 oz here. This horchata has a rich rice flavor, mixed and sprinkled generously with cinnamon. I thought the sweetness and mix of flavors was good. (4/5)
Overall I didn't think the food at Pilar's was worth the cost. I feel like the great reviews are more for how friendly Sylvia and the staff are, and the tasteful and quirky restaurant decor, rather than for the food. I don't see myself going again, but I'm clearly in the minority given the great reviews and multiple awards this place has. read more