"I'm not force-feeding myself a steak at four-thirty to save a coupla bucks, I'll tell you that!" - Jerry Seinfeld
Andiamo! Do yourself a favor this spring & get over to this spot and grab an outdoor table as Italians would do. Do the whole thing starting about 6:30pm, linger with an aperitif and small plate, aiming for dinner to start after 7pm. As the days heat falls away, and the sky's faint stars appear during dinner and dolci, you are taken back to that Osteria you stumbled on just outside of Florence. Forgive my long winded review...
da Scene: I had mentioned to chef friend of mine I was on a mission to find Bistecca alla fiorentina as we're going back to Florence later this year, I wanted a comparison point. A "true one" he said is impossible as Chianina cattle are uniquely from the Tuscany region, it could be a kilo of quality Porterhouse, but not the real thing. Weeks later he told me a of a ranch up north (Fassona Beef) that raises Piedmontese cattle and sells it across the US. While different from the Tuscan cattle, would be a truer Italian steak.
Enter Fasulo Osteria... apparently they obtain this special beef and occasionally create daily specials, depending on the cuts they obtained. My take of this meat is it really does affect the preparation it's used in. The US has been guided to understand that "fat equals flavor/quality", this beef runs in the face of that and does so exquisitely. Somehow lean and tender at the same time in steak form; in a robust ragu pappardelle it is outstanding.
da Grub: The four of us have dined together many times, so we order w/ abandon. Bottle of Vermentino (excellent choice by our waiter), antipastino plate, burrata/tomato salad, and 2 orders of the decadent Parmesan Soufflé (not to be missed!). start things off. We select 4 different primi and of course sample each others: My Lamb Ragu was quite good, slow braised lamb chunks in a reduced rustic sauce; but the other 3 bites I sampled had me in plate envy... a Tagliatelle w/ mushroom & burrata so rich I did not miss a protein, Spaghetti in squid ink w/ lobster - well nothing subtle here savory sauce and perfectly poached lobster... but lastly the Taleggio Ravioli in Pomegranate sauce was the stunner; the texture of the ravioli against the creamy cheese filling contrasted by the complex Pomegranate sauce and some crunchy sprinkling was a unique pasta preparation I hope to taste again before the menu changes. We add one main to share: a roasted Veal Chop was perfect with about 3 bites per person, finishing with the Nona Cake, espresso and limoncello. It was as indulgent as it sounds, I say unapologetically!
da Service: A young lady greeted as we wandered in ahead of our dining partners and seated us with both still & sparkling water as requested. Massimo (one of 3 brothers running the joint) came to greet us as if old friends; I had only been once before on a boys night to scope the place out before bringing the girls. We had met the chef ('Cello) on the last visit; perhaps we'll meet the 3rd brother on our 3rd stop?! Like in Italy, I felt like we had the table for the evening... there was no rush, everything was paced and expedited perfectly. Wine and water were topped off as needed and plenty of time to enjoy the food, friends, and surroundings was given.
There is an inside dining room for those who prefer, but I've not been inside... the outdoor courtyard is laid out with enough space between tables that conversations are not stepped on. A sandy gravel floor (add a bocci ball court!) is surrounded by fruiting kumquat trees and the faint scent of citrus wafted occasionally when the slight spring breeze blew by. It was one of those nights.
I remember thinking (better be good!) when the referral came to me... it's in Davis?! That's a bit of a trek for us, but that outdoor area is a standout when paired with the fine grub. Yeah, I can find fine italian in the East bay and the City, but the ambience at Fasulo is unique; take the drive, you won't regret it.
Pro tip: if you are seeking the Piedmontese beef, call ahead to check on specials, they do run out between orders, ciao! read more