My Fiancee and I attended Nightingale April 2019 for a special occasion. Although the food and service was good, I was left quite unsatisfied at the wine experience we had here.
We ordered the 2015(?) Emilio Moro (Tempranillo) from the Ribera del Duero , (a modest $40-smthg CAD bottle at Everything Wine), ($114-ish at Nightingale). (Not one of the Ribera's knockouts, but I'm partial to the region, the nebiolo's were all way too young, I'm boycotting France, and other than Norman Hardy, I can't seem to keep any Canadian sludge down).
The wine chap, (who in fairness to him, may or not have been an accredited sommelier, but I'll assume he was), casually presented the bottle at the table: (yup, label/vintage as ordered): then took it away "to decant". (period). Whilst I DO trust this restaurant to uncork/decant/return to table properly, I did walk over to ask him if we might keep the cork to add to our embarrassingly large collection at home; (special occasion and all). Doing so, I observed him drinking some of the bottle in question: I asked what he was doing, to which he replied he was tasting it. (I hadn't asked for him to taste it for me, nor did he ask or tell me he was going to do so). He said he was checking that the wine was not spoiled.
All sommeliers should be very familiar with the CMS standard wine serving protocols, and should advise the host of significant deviations thereto. (and this IS one).
Please do NOT assume that you are more able to discern a spoiled bottle, than the host is: in my case, (and many others), you are not. Nor is checking for an "off" bottle your mission: again, please see the Sommeliers service standards, and apply them, or at least have the guts to tell your customers what you're going to do. The sommeliers expertise can indeed be valuable at times, but almost entirely at the SELECTION stage: sure, recommendations and pairing suggestions can enhance the meal, but once thats sorted out, the normally simple and objective determination of spoilage is straightforward, and can/should be afforded the customer.
Customers who request assistance should of course be helped, but THIS practice should not be normalized without the clear understanding and concurrence of the paying customer. Remember who you serve.
Having travelled the wine/restaurant world extensively, I can say I've never witnessed this practice firsthand, before tonight, although I am aware of it making a bit of a comeback in "some" restaurants...a century ago, it was common, but not in the last 2-3 generations, as consumers became more informed, and demanding. On the rare occasions it IS done, it is ostensibly to "spare" the guest the "pressure" of the testing moment, or to avoid presenting a flawed wine at the table. Both fair enough, but most customers don't feel any "pressure", and wouldn't be put off by a spoiled bottle: sometimes its hard to tell before being uncorked, and hey, mistakes happen in any industry. This practice may be appreciated by the occasional diner not confident in his/her wine judgement, but to the rest of us, please ASK whether we would like the som' to make this decision for us. don't worry: if its oxidized, corked, etc, we'll tell you.
Bottle arrived at the table at approx 13C. (great temp to STORE it at, not to SERVE it at).
The Ribera offers better examples of Tinto Fino at this price-point. Widely available in BC, the dependable Pesquera, or Peter Sisseck's PSI, would be good places to start.
Incidentally, if you're going to be a sommelier, take note of the Professional Appearance section of the Standards. Our chappie was a nice enough fellow, but looked like he came to work on a skateboard, and was wearing a red Hawaiian shirt, a beard of truly Islamic proportions, and a man-bun... i suppose it's de rigeur, here. read more