My spouse and I live in the borough that contains the best restaurants in New York City. Thankfully, Manhattanites still have difficulty navigating Queens, leaving us mostly in peace to enjoy our amazing chefs in intimate comfort.
For our special guests, good friends, and when the occasion calls for it, our number one restaurant of choice is Mombar.
Mombar is owned by Moustafa El Sayed, who is the chef and the artist who decorated the front and the inside of the space. (His brother Ali owns the Kabob Cafe just up the street.) I initially found Mombar by scent. There was no signage for the place, just a wonderfully decorated front, but when I strolled past it, the manager opened the door and the aroma of Egyptian coffee floated out to draw me in. (Egyptian coffee is as thick as you'd expect from that part of the world, enhanced by floating a cardamon seed on top.)
Walking inside is like walking into a combination of folk-art gallery and the home of your favorite Egyptian uncle's place. The walls and ceilings are designed with found-tile mosaics, and each table-top is uniquely decorated, all by the chef. Chairs and benches with pillows are standard fare for seating.
For a white-bread Midwestern Scots-German girl, I find Middle Eastern culture and atmosphere very homey. On our most recent trip, the manager/waiter and the chef greeted my partner and me, and our guests, with their usual combination of cheerful handshakes and friendly "we haven't seen you for so long" comments. This time, however, the chatter had added content - Moustafa and his brother Ali recently hosted Anthony Bourdain and Andrew Zimmern on one of Bourdain's television shows. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBFDvyi6p64
Here's the thing about eating in Mombar: we've been there often enough, the chef knows us and we trust him. He always knows my spouse will have the duck glazed with molasses. He knows that I will try anything else, and have a fondness for tajines. We frequently encourage our guests to have the chef's tasting menu (I often go for that myself), but for the first time we were dissuaded by the waiter.
"You must try something we made for Mister Bourdain and Mister Zmmern," he insisted. How could I refuse? Okay, granted... I'm not an organ meats fan, but then, I wasn't raised eating most of what makes up my diet these days, nor was I raised to tell a chef that I wouldn't try something he was eager to make. So I agreed to try the lamb cheeks. Our guest was torn between the chef's tasting menu and just going for the rabbit tajine. The waiter listed off what he was already bringing to the table, and suggested that what we should round out the table with tilapia.
We started with egyptian layered bread (imagine a phyllo that has weight) with three spreads - fresh hummus, the best babaganouj I've ever eaten (smoky!) and the Egyptian national food: foul. Pronounced "fool," this is a mashed fava bean spread usually eaten for breakfast.. and for snacking the rest of the day. Then the lamb cheek dish arrived, piping hot. It was a rich "meat spread" that was best eaten on pita.
Food orgasms continued with the main courses - lamb shank, duck glazed in molasses, and the tilapia tajine. My side of spinach was infused with the juice of the lamb, while the spinach on the side for the duck main course was sharper, more greek in its lemony-garlic goodness. The three of us shared the food, and Moustafa personally came over to check on us. This is a touch I always appreciate at Mombar - there is no presumptive "how's everything" as if it's a rhetorical question. The staff cares, and the chef engages in conversation with us.
Moustafa, in fact, will not only offer specials to us that aren't on the menu (like the lamb cheek spread), but will tailor his "chef's tasting" menu. We once brought a friend to Mombar who was recovering from a serious bout of diruticulitis, and Moustafa sat with us for a good 10 minutes, going over each dish he could make or enhance, to ensure that the tasting menu would not aggravate a medical condition.
As awesome as our dinner was, we had to save room for dessert. My partner had the Egyptian bread pudding (one of those great Middle Eastern dishes that could also be an awesome breakfast), and I had Chef's surprise. Moustafa makes great, simple desserts that are generally a combination of a fruit wrapped in pastry, and drizzled with the syrup of another fruit. This time it was poached pear on a bird's nest, drizzled in pomegranant syrup with a scoop of cardmamon ice cream. Yum! read more