We overdid it. Especially for a Monday.
While I've been to L&E a few times, we're relatively new to the city and my wife hadn't visited yet. Over the weekend, while looking at L&E's instagram account, she declared we had to go Monday and try the new swedish meatball appetizer. This is the kind of ultimatum you cannot argue with.
So, we hit the road early, and ended up being the first table seated of the evening. Yes, even with one Michelin star under their belt, if you go to L&E at 5pm on a Monday, you'll probably get a table.
We put an order in for a round of drinks. My Manhattan was unsurprisingly perfect, but I was surprised by the house Pinot Noir. It was also great. Food is good, but it's important to note the drinks are also really good.
The kitchen started us out with a CRAZY intense and delicious amuse bouche shot of shrimp bisque. The menu changes frequently, and it's quite possible this soup is not often available but damn... it was great. Thank the lord my wife isn't a super seafood fan, and I was able to down her shot of bisque as well. So so good. It tasted of the entire shrimp, with a rich and complex flavor.
Our decision to order shared plates paid off, and the kitchen perfectly staggered our meal with a fantastic pace. Everything came out with absolute perfect timing.
First up was the housemade paté, pickles, sourdough toast and a most amazing wholegrain mustard. Everything worked well together, but as we nibbled on things individually it became apparent everything individually was also wonderful. The pickles had a strong giardiniera nod to Chicago that I loved.
Next up was the "warm" cheese gougeres filled with gruyere mornay sauce. I put warm in quotes because the cheese sauce was thrillingly HOT and melty. Imagine a stiff puff pastry, the size of a couple of a cupcake filled with delicious creamy cheese.
While I will admit, we we're over the top decadent at this point, the pretzel and welsh rarebit sauce that came next pushed us over the edge. The homemade pretzel was INSANELY wonderful. It had an almost croissant level of crispy layers, and the dark brown exterior was covered in flaky salt crystals. Served hot, it paired delightfully with the rarebit sauce, and hold on a minute... can I get another Manhattan? I need something to wash all of this excitement with.
For our "entrees" we ordered the brand new, previously mentioned swedish meatballs (for the wife) and the beer battered smelt with braised dandelion greens, cattail marmalade and caper gel (for me).
My wife loved the meatballs. We're swedish meatball fans in general, but the sweet parsnip puree took it to another level. And my smelt? Well, it was grand. I'm a HUGE fan of smelt, but typically I only consume it in rural northern Michigan during late summer camping vacations. It's not a fish that travels far, and generally is consumed by fishermen and hunters.
If you've got a good & strong seafood mind, imagine that it tastes a bit like uncured / un pickled sardines. Small in size, you can basically eat the whole thing. Typically, it's served super over fried with tartar sauce.
But with dandelion greens & a caper gel? And gently fried with care? Wow. I love smelt even more now, and I thank you chef Jared Wentworth. Nice work. Caper gel, I will admit, is new to me. So bright and tangy. But if you start selling it in toothpaste sized tubes, I will buy it by the caseload.
After all of this satiating, there was no turning back, and we ordered some dessert. Boy oh boy, while I'm still full hours later, I have zero regrets. The brand new "nutter butter" is something, I will beg they permanently keep this on the menu because wowee zowee it's layers of chocolate, peanut butter and creamy goodness paired with wonderful crumbles and crunchy bits.... it was amazeballs. Huge portion for two people already full by the way, and this was the first time in recent memory that we actually took a doggie bag home.
Bravo L&E. Can't imagine how obscene our next visit will be, but for a Monday night surprise you've basically killed our week. Nothing will compare. read more