Lindens was located in the Arlo SoHo hotel, just north of Canal Street and just east of the Holland Tunnel, making it a bit out of the way. I had been wanting to try it for years, but was always concerned that certain friends might find it a hike from their transportation hubs. However, I recently included it on a list of dinner options with some friends, and they were so interested in the menu that they were fine with the location, which was fantastic news for me.
As I was approaching the restaurant on our selected evening, I received a message in our group chat that some of the folks had already arrived and were waiting for the rest of us in their "yurt in the courtyard". Well, that sure sounded exciting, and I was thrilled to discover them relaxing in a sort of wicker tent with a large, private table and plenty of room for our party of five. Throughout the night, we had several members of the waitstaff check in on us, which was a bit confusing, but William was our primary server and was very friendly.
Once I took my seat, I picked up the cocktail list and was immediately drawn to the Rosemary Spiced Margarita, which turned out to be an excellent choice. It had smokey notes from its inclusion of Sel Maguey Vida Mezcal, heat from habanero, tartness from grapefruit and lime, herbaceousness from fresh rosemary, and a touch of sweetness from agave. It was perfection!
We ordered starters for the table, including the Parker House Rolls with seasonal leek butter. The zesty, creamy spread was delicious, but the rolls were not the best. They were served as four thick slices that had been baked together into a small loaf and had been overcooked or toasted to the point where they were crunchy and dry. They were a letdown. To continue our carb-fest, we also got the Crispy Fennel Pita, which was similar to a lengthy flatbread that was sprinkled with various herbs like fresh fennel. It was served with a whipped feta that had been topped with a mint pesto and balsamic vinegar. Despite that bread course being labeled as "crispy", it was more chewy than anything, but I enjoyed it prepared as it was. Both the pita and the feta were sprinkled with herbs that really enhanced the flavors of two items that might otherwise be on the blander side. Lastly, we shared the Hamachi Crudo, which was delicate, fresh, and served in a tangy broth composed of jalapeno, cilantro, lemon oil, and a citrus paprika sauce.
After all of those appetizers, we each opted for individual main courses, and I selected the Branzino. The grilled filet was topped with a Ceringola olive tapenade and served over a burnt eggplant-tahini, both of which really enhanced the Mediterranean flavors of the dish. The branzino had also been perfectly prepared with tender meat and light notes of char. My companions all liked their meals, and we all also agreed on the deliciousness of the side of fries we had placed in the center of the table. The massive bowl of thinly-cut, crispy fries had been sprinkled with either Cajun or Old Bay seasoning and were served with small cups of truffle mayo and ketchup on the side. The potatoes were tasty on their own and especially so after dipping them into the aromatic mayo.
Lastly, we were debating on how many desserts to order to satisfy our needs for a sweet finale to the experience. We wound up getting a plate of their Chocolate Chip Cookies, which were baked fresh to order. William had let us know that the platter included six "bite-sized" treats, which I thought would not be enough, but they were actually larger than I had anticipated. They were also sinfully delicious with loads of gooey chocolate chunks in each one. My friends also ordered the Creme Brûlée. I had not read the details of Lindens' particular rendition, as custardy desserts usually do not appeal to me. However, I took a spoonful and was shocked to discover how unique it was. Beneath the traditional crunchy topping and decadent creme was a surprising layer of fresh apple compote that was not overly sweet. Together, it made such a heavenly bite! The plate also included a thin wedge of pie dough that had been backed into a crunchy cookie.
In addition to the beautiful weather on that Spring evening, our dinner was made that much better by the delightful meal and ambiance at Lindens. It was one of those hotel restaurants that exceeded even locals' expectations. read more