The Zen of Cooking:
Comptoir is a very specialized restaurant that caters to a very specific segment of the restaurant going population who are into the nuances & fine details of not only the flavours, textures, fragrance, visual presentation of the foods, but also the carefully thought out mechanics of body motion & ballet of the hands plating the food which are also part of the aesthetics.
It's very cerebral food in that one must contemplate & think about every bite & how each ingredient contributes to create a subtle interplay of flavours. In some ways Gary Menes is very similar to a Japanese Kaiseki chef where every move & every flavor is planned out to the nth degree. Most of his produce is from his garden in Long Beach. Service is thoughtful, well executed, professional. There is a certain deliberate seriousness to Chef Menes's cuisine which should be appreciated.
1) Cavolo Nero/dino kale fried to a dry crisp is dark black green in color. Flavour has a slight seaweed ocean minerality from possibly sprinkled sea salt w/ toasty undertones. Crème Fraiche drizzled w/ olive oil is a light, sweet, creamy counter point.
2) Tomato Veloute is a pureed orange colored tomato soup that is like a sweet, acidic lightly seasoned salsa marinara & is poured over Greek yogurt which adds a smooth creaminess to offset some of the acid. Fried bread crumbs add a gritty texture in an otherwise smooth dish. It reminds me of an Ile Flotante.
1-2a) Muscadet Sevre et Maine sur Lie 2014 Domaine de la Pepiere is said to pair well w/ raw oysters. Bouquet is very light citrus. Tastes of high minerality, salty, grapefruit juice. Finish is sour, tangy, citrus zest.
3) Vegetable & Fruit plate is chock full of slices of carrot, Japanese eggplant, squash, broccoli, cauliflower, fennel root, red bell pepper that are either steamed, grilled, sautéed in butter. Beet, red onion, Japanese Fuyu persimmon are pickled in vinegar. Segment of tangerine, half a Meyer lemon looking fruit is sweet yet sour. Savor each morsel since they all have a different taste & texture.
3a) Bouzeron 2013 A.&P. de Villaine has a resiny, pear peel bouquet. Tastes of apple peel, mothball, floral incense w/ light bitter astringency.
4) 62 Degree egg is delicately soft boiled, almost diaphanous sprinkled w/ well aged mellow, fermented dairy Parmigiano Reggiano & sea salt augmented by Beurre Noisette that has a nutty, browned butteriness. The Matsutake mushroom bleeds its almost black truffle-like woodsiness into the beurre. Ruccola/arugula was fresh, bitter w/ a peanut oil scent. Chef Menes's 20 year old yeast, rustic Sourdough was used to sop up the runny remains.
4a) Santa Barbara Co. Chardonnay 2013 Whitcraft Winery was unusual in that it tasted like tangerine juice & zest w/ bitter sweetness & acidity.
5) Blue Lake beans were steamed & tasted intensely of sweet green beans; delicately soft sweet pear seems grilled & sweet potato is steamed. The lima bean & almond 'beurre blanc' dairy oiliness added unctuous, meaty sweetness.
5a) Gattinara 2002 Nervi, Piedmonte has dark brandied cherry, plums, leather, damask rose scent tasting of resiny tannin, smoky oak, creosote, black fruits leaving a raspy roughness.
6) Blackened Blue Hubbard squash looked like a slab of meat, firm slightly earthy sweet. Farro seeds are chewy, nutty, big intermixed w/ dried blueberry squash seeds. Leek could be eaten in between bites for a funky, oniony interlude.
6a) Chinon 2010 Les Picasses, Olga Raffault has a light 'ammonia', blue berry, oak scent that tastes of green bell pepper, smoky white pepper, mothball.
7) Cheeses
a) Cowgirl Mt. Tam is a sweet, subdued, musty plush triple cream. I paired the Whitcraft Chardonnay.
b) 10 year Wisconsin Cheddar had profound dairy Umami, & strong, deep mellowed Cheddar taste that was exquisite. Chinon made of Cabernet Franc was the pairing.
c) Bailey Hazen Blue is mild, almost triple creamy, smooth, sweet, earthy moldy musky blue cheese. Gattinara made from Nebbiolo paired acceptably.
Chef Menes talked to us before the meal to clue us in on what was to be served & at the end of the meal to get our feedback. I mentioned that I would love to see the chef go back to his roots & create his rendition of a hyper refined Pinakbet, Paksiu na Lechon, etc. I may have to drag him to the kitchen yelling & screaming. 4+ Yelp stars for understated, cultured, urbane cuisine. read more