MOST IMPORTANT TIP: if you don't speak Spanish, study this restaurant's menu BEFORE going in (there are pics on Yelp), and use Google translate to figure out what's what. I didn't recognize many of the terms on the menu and my phone wouldn't connect to data inside the restaurant.
I was looking for lunch in the Hidalgo Market, and wasn't finding anything I wanted. Then from a distance I saw this restaurant's sign. I had walked right past this place at street level about 5 times because it doesn't look like a restaurant from the outside, and inside it's just a few tables.
I am aware of Oaxaca's prominence on the Mexican culinary map, and especially of the various moles. It would have been easy to just order something familiar, like a mole negro on chicken. But I decided to be adventurous. I picked a dish with a couple of words I knew, and did my best to talk it over with the Spanish-only server. I was able to confirm that what I was ordering wasn't some strange organ of a cow or pig--in fact it was vegetarian (I think).
I ordered "huazontle," served relleno style with cheese and fried, and smothered in the mole or salsa of my choice (I went verde, yum). And it was a dining lesson. Huazontle is similar in appearance to broccoli, but much sparser and with woody, slender stems, which I had to work around as they were too tough to chew. But the flavor was unique--earthy and almost nutty yet strangely fragrant. I've never tasted anything like it. It came with rice and delicious tortillas. All very very good. I also had a lovely and refreshing goblet of not-too-sweet guava juice. The adorable server brought me a sample of it, and of another juice, so I could decide. Pre-meal was the typical small bowl of super crispy chips and salsa with spoons. (True to Mexican style, it's meant to be an appetizer, not a whole meal-sized basket of chips which Americans are used to). The whole thing came to USD$9.
I'm giving 4 stars as it's very good, but far from fine dining, and because the woody stems of the huazontle should have been removed, IMO.
It was busy enough on a Wednesday afternoon, but I was the only gringo--this is a true local find. I have need to be in Tijuana every few weeks and this Oaxaca eatery will be top of the list for a revisit. But next time I'll translate the menu in advance! read more