(deep breath)
I am about to, and with a regret I wish I could conjure up in my blackened heart, about to say, not very nice things about La Brasa. It really pains me to do so, because the chefs behind the venture, are excellent. It's in my favorite part of all of Boston, the one part that when I moved to the great state of Massachusetts from New York City, I felt I could relate to the most. I moved here 5 years ago, and being in the East Somerville/Winter Hill/Union Square area of Somerville, reminded me, in spirit, of home, minimally in spirit. When I heard this place was moving in, I was excited to try it. I asked my peeps. Some LOVED it. Some HATED it. Still, I decided, I had to try it. Everything that went down tonight, is not okay, most of all, not okay in my soul.
The first thing I really want to say, is that my favorite places to dine, to drink, to be, are the ones that do not pretend to be something trend, something expected to exist there for a very specific clientele, they are created organically in their own space and pretend to be nothing else but THEIR own personal culture, and Somerville DOES have these things, whether we're talking about gems like Highland Kitchen, Neighborhood Restaurant, Journeyman/Backbar, Bergamot and/or newcomers like Kirkland Tap and Trotter. That Trina's Starlite Lounge a place I'm embarrassed to admit to how many times I've "wound up there"offers a Monday Brunch, is one of those things I just get the warm fuzzies about, that...and that the cocktails are solid. Redbones, is still the first place I take out of town friends to when they come visit, and Neighborhood Restaurant is a must have tour stop as well. Somerville, is super cool, it's tiny, but it has gems that are always going to to be able to say "I am purely Somerville," not a small city trying to chase Portland, or Williamsburg. It does so in a way that speaks not to anyone else's particular style or brand or way of doing, but stays true to itself. Food memories are often made most, when the thing you are eating, tastes a little like the place you are eating it.
With that, I will now criticize just about every choice La Brasa has made, from the exposed rough hewn wood laden-hipster mess hall decor, clipboard menu, anti table setting homey "warehouse" look that they chose, the one they think says "foodie centric, Brooklyn the Brand. The well trained staff that have, like exceptional actor robot people, been taught about the menu, to look effusive and excited about it, only to find, that when you match their excitement, and their effusiveness, they have absolutely no idea what the hell they're serving you,
I really resent being pandered to. I hate it all the more when the food, isn't good.
The first tip off I should have gotten was seeing the pop up coffee shop inside of the restaurant, like it thinks...it's the Stumptown Coffee pop up in the Ace Hotel. You can rep for brands/growers/producers you love...in a way that doesn't feel so obtrusive and "market-y."
The second tip off, was the menu itself, a parody, along the lines of this http://eater.com/archives/2014/07/24/trendy-restaurant-menu.php
The third was this new trend, where there is no table setting, and you extract your own utensils. I'm over this. OVER IT. I understand places where the focus is the food, not the table settings, or the decor, but minimally, if it's not a greasy spoon, set the damn table. Sorry, I'm over that.
But the thing that made me all but furious? The food. It's execution isn't there. La Brasa with it's "grilled" food of cross cultures with a leaning towards Mexican, but not really, lacks identity. My chicken and dumplings tasted like one thing, cumin. and the dumplings were the texture of paste and in short supply. It's accompanying vegetables of Brussel Sprouts and Parsnips were on point for their seasonality, but the pinto beans that were dispersed throughout the dish felt like an afterthought. The side dish I'd ordered, greens, limp and lifeless in a buttermilk dressing came out instantly after my appetizer of fried dough, (greasy and cold) and not with the actual...main course, so there is sat, waiting, losing more life and looking sadder by the second. Carnitas Tacos, that my husband ordered with excitement considering Daniel Bojorquez's Mexican Heritage, were a disappointment, the tortilla cold, the meat tough. Mexican rice was bland and underseasoned.
At this point, the restaurant realized the mess up with the sides coming so far ahead of the main course, so they sent me a cheese plate, because after all, cheese plates are so on trend, even if they're being sent mid meal where they make NO SENSE. The cheeses however, were the high point of the meal, and that...is saying something sad.
I left hating everyone and everything. I was so angered by this experience, it made me depressed. Fortunately Highland Kitchen, is very close by. read more