I just finished eating at Ichiriki for the second time this week and as I sit here on my couch watching Iron Chef America (Battle Lobster is raging on) happy thoughts are running idly through my mind. Thoughts such as, "I wonder what kind of broth I'll try next time?" and "Mmm, that shaved ice was yummy!" I can't stop thinking about how good it was!
Ichiriki is a nabe restaurant that opened in late August and is now doing so well that if you don't make a reservation, you may well be turned away. On my first visit, I brought a friend who had had a bad experience with bland shabu shabu during a visit to Asia. I wanted to show him that hot pot cooking was more than just boiling stuff in water.
Ichiriki offers shabu shabu, sukiyaki, and other nabe choices on it's menu. You can also choose to have kami, or paper, nabe. This is where the broth is served in a thick bowl of paper held over the flames by a wire mesh basket. As well as being aesthetically pleasing, kami nabe is a more healthful option, as the paper helps to absorb the excess fat from the broth. Just don't pierce it with your chopstick.
Most diners choose the nabe, as it offers several flavorful options. (Shabu shabu is similar to nabe, but the broth is actually water with a piece of konbu for flavoring, and sukiyaki is meat and vegetables simmered in a soy- and mirin-based sauce.) Each pot is shared between two diners and is partitioned so that each diner can choose a differently flavored broth. Choices include shoyu, shio (salt), miso, pirikara (garlic chips and chilis), and kimchee. Shoyu is the most popular. The pirikara had a nice garlic flavor, but was not at all spicy. The miso broth was rich, but too sweet for me.
Don't forget to ask for the goma (sesame seed) and ponzu dipping sauces. The goma is especially good here.
Each order (except for the pirikara, which is a smaller, stingier portion)comes with up to sixteen ingredients: beef, 1 scallop, 1 shrimp, arabiki sausage, tsukune (chicken and pork meatballs, sort of like gyoza filling), chives, leeks, napa cabbage, bok choy, gobo, arrowroot noodles, tofu, aburage, 1 shiitake mushroom, enoki mushrooms, and your choice of udon or ramen) It doesn't look like much, but with a bowl of rice and all that broth to drink, you will be completely sated. There is a particular order in which you cook the ingredients, which I learned as a girl in Japan when I got scolded for trying to toss in everything at once. In case you don't know, your friendly server will not only explain, he/she will even get you started by demonstrating it. Generally, you cook the more flavorful ingredients first to flavor the broth, such as the tsukune and veggies, then the meats, and last, the noodles. When everything has been eaten, you drink the broth. Then you waddle away.
Ichiriki has a good sake selection, but I observed a server at the next table pouring the sake only up to the halfway point in the glasses instead of filling them up so they overflowed abundantly into the wooden box. They just expanded their liquor menu to include a whole bunch of shochu and umeshu. For a refreshing twist on iced tea, try the citrusy yuzu tea.
An entire list of appetizers is offered, but the cucumber and onion salad with bonito shavings and an ume vinaigrette that I ordered hit the spot so well, I ordered another one. Don't order the fried calamari--it was so overcooked that the meat had shriveled down to a few pieces of crispy nothingness.
If you have a room left at the end of your meal, order the ujikintoki, shaved ice with matcha (powdered green tea on the bitter side), condensed milk, azuki beans, and mochi balls. Although I was stuffed, I was disappointed to find only three small balls of mochi in the entire dessert. I did appreciate that the traditional dessert didn't slap me in the face with a hefty wallop of fat and sugar as most American desserts do.
While I found the prices at Ichiriki to be quite favorable (around $20 for one order) in comparison to other restaurants in town, I did wish that they could sneak in maybe one more scallop, or another mushroom. The pirikara nabe only comes with a little plate of a few slices of beef with head cabbage and a few other things, but no seafood or mushrooms. Last time I went, I had them do the pirikara broth, but switched out the stingy plate for a normal one for a slight upcharge. They do offer side orders of beef, but I craved more. Maybe it was all for the better. After all, isn't gluttony one of the seven deadly sins? read more