Over 10 years ago, this was the best Japanese restaurant on the small strip of San Jose Japantown. This may or may not hold true to this day, but nonetheless, this humble everyday man and woman's eatery and grill continues to dish out the standard goods and does it well. Cash only, which is how the prices are kept to a reasonable level compared to other places that either do it pseudo or not even in the same quality.
I have a hard time describing Gombei. Not quite fully Americanized fare but not necessarily something that's comfort/everyday authentic food in Japan's countryside for example, but I suppose for the USA it qualifies. The standard menu items include noodles like udon and perhaps soba (both in broth), grilled meats and fish (shioyaki or teriyaki), agemono (fried shrimp, calamari, croquettes), lunch and dinner combos/sets of the non noodle items (which are some of the best value for great portions, includes a nice salad with a creamy dressing AND a bowl of fantastic but a tad bit salty miso shiru which you can taste the dashi base inside, arguably enough katsuobushi/bonito flakes), donburi (simmered meats or fish over rice, and their unagi don is actually unagi with egg!) with oyako don being a favorite of mine here, and as no surprise, oyako udon (known as just chicken udon) is also supreme. The udon of course is not freshly made and probably from packets, but it is a slightly thinner variety that makes for easier slurping.
I'm going to risk losing my credibility here, but the beef teriyaki here is actually pretty damn good. I'm not talking about the sauce, but rather the cuts of beef they use for the price, and the mastery of grilling by the counter kitchen chefs. It comes out perfect with heat and still moist to the bite. Not surprisingly the same beef for yaki niku don, is also excellent, though can be a little bit burnt at times on the outside, as an alternative for those who don't like teriyaki that much (like me).
Did you know that teriyaki in kanji translates to "bright" and "grilled"? (Bright as in shiny, as reflected by the glimmer/or glitter on sauce against lighting). I didn't know that.
This is a much smaller space than its Menlo Park counterpart and interesting enough although Menlo Park has more tables, it lacks a good amount of counter seating and space, which strangely the San Jose location is a complete reverse. I think the best seats at San Jose Gombei are at the counter. The kitchen here is also much smaller but you get to see the cooks at work, and why that oyako udon takes a long time to prepare (they really take the time to do it right). The experience is probably not like those mom & pop American diners but more so like in Asia or Japan, where people are on the go and need a nice heartfelt comfort bite of some tasty bento, or a steaming bowl of rice topped with meat or fish, and/or a piping bowl of udon with a good tasting broth.
Here's a tip: if you are kind of bored of the standard menu fare and want something a bit more authentic down home Japanese, check out the white board specials. The one in Menlo Park seemingly has more variety (and is of a larger size) than the San Jose location, but the offerings are more or less the same. The offerings change periodically, but you can also find great value and portions in these set meals/offerings, as well as side dishes. Some might include (and at random)
- sashimi set lunch/dinner (maguro, hamachi or salmon, and/or albacore) with steamed rice, miso soup, salad and maybe a side of Hiyakko with katsuobushi (cold tofu in soy sauce and bonito flakes). Of course it is no secret that San Jose Tofu is literally next door where they get the tofu from, so the Hiyakko here is and should be great. I think you can get tofu teriyaki? on the menu? Eeeek.
- Braised or stewed whole aji and they might even have had a variation of it (can't remember what it was, did not have it)
- One of the side dishes that I like is vegetable stew (from the white board), or I suppose mix veg nimono. Daikon, carrots, mushrooms, fishcake, yam cake/noodle thing, stewed in a very tasty clear broth that had good daikon flavor in it.
As this location is small, space fills up quickly. People in the area are smart and know where to go eat. Many of the other SJ J-town restaurants I probably wouldn't even want to risk trying, since this place has been tried and true for me for years (even during my college days). Although Menlo Park Gombei is bigger and probably has a slightly better grill taste, that manager with attitude there will probably not make me want to go back. The smaller SJ location feels more intimate and homey, and if they somehow eliminated all the tables and made it into a tiny space with 8 to 10 counter seats, it would be like those hole in the walls at Tsukiji Fish Market where the fishermen might eat (like that "Edomae" counter eatery that does a famous uni and crab donburi for like 10 bucks). read more