Co-owned by respected restaurateur Ellen Yin and Chef Eli Kulp, Fork is the original concept for these James Beard Award nominees. It's part of the High Street Hospitality Group, which also includes High Street on Market, High Street on Hudson, and a. kitchen + bar. It's rare that a restaurant has not only persisted, but consistently progressed over two decades. And with Executive Chef John Patterson at Fork's helm, Craig LaBan elevated Fork to four bells late last year. So needless to say, the GF and I were excited.
Here are excerpts from a Tasting & Wine Pairing we recently attended:
Sweet Amalia Oysters | Castellroig Rose Cava
Local oysters were on offer from Cape May NJ. Plump, meaty, and briny, this paired nicely with the cava.
Fairytale Eggplant | Castellroig Rose Cava
No bitterness came from these gorgeous fairytale eggplant, scored and delicately roasted to provide just enough smoky savoriness to bring us to our meal proper.
Watermelon Salad | Cuvee di Silex
For the GF's first course, she received a gorgeous landscape of compressed watermelon that had a subtle sweetness and texture that was balanced by the espelette-brown butter crumble and the floral tang of the green coriander yogurt.
Shrimp Carpaccio | Cuvee di Silex
Not to be outdone, the dish I received was just as visually stunning. Lightly smoked, the briny essence of the shrimp carpaccio was further cemented by the sea beans, with additional texture coming from bits of radish. Both were paired with a crisp and vibrant Chenin Blanc.
Bread Service
Having previously flourished under James-Beard nominated Alex Bois, High Street on Market's bread program is second to none and continues to turn out amazing product. Therefore, it came as no surprise that bread service at Fork is not standard fare. A wonderful crust and a moist, buoyant texture within, it was the perfect vessel for the soft (yes!) pat of butter.
Potato Gnocchi | "B Minor"
Pasta were paired with an Australian Mourvedre-Grenache-Shiraz blend from Nagambie Lakes. Rich and velvety, this went nicely with the GF's gnocchi. Pillowy clouds of pasta were ethereal and seemingly vanished in the sauce of lamb ragu and English peas.
Black Pepper Malfatti | "B Minor"
Malfatti were rolled out to thin pasta sheets, with cheese, garlic scapes, and cracked black pepper interspersed with some heft from the occasional fava.
Golden Tilefish | Tasca d'Almerita Leone
Local New Jersey tilefish was delicate, flaky, and with the sweet essence of lobster or crab. Stewed Sun Gold tomatoes and potatoes provided the foundation, with furikake seasoning adding texture to each bite. This was paired with a fragrant Cattarato blend from Sicily.
32 oz. Dry-Aged Strip | Valderhermoso Roble
We were also treated with a behemoth 32 oz. dry-aged sirloin - essentially the T-bone, with a bit of the filet as an added bonus. Nicely seared on the exterior and basted with plenty of butter and roasted garlic, I appreciated that the funk of the dry-aged beef was allowed to shine. This was served with rainbow carrots roasted in bone marrow and a well-dressed chicory salad. Paired with a Spanish red that was aged in French oak barrels, this was a luxurious end to our mains.
Intermezzo
A particularly pretty palate cleanser of tart raspberry sorbet and pomegranates signified dessert.
Chocolate Mousse Tart
There was a nice interplay between the luxurious chocolate mousse and the tang of the citrus curd, with texture coming from the trail of chocolate graham crackers.
Pecan Brown Butter Cake
And to end, tangy, saccharine sorbet and fresh peaches sat atop a moist pecan brown butter cake.
Service was exceptional and seamless. Beverage Director & Manager Harry Jamison also ensured that each pairing was well-described and every question was answered. It was wonderful chatting with Ellen Yin when she stopped by to say hello to each and every diner. read more