"You and I will be lost and found a thousand times along this cobbled road of us". (Atticus)
"What do you mean you don't know what your favorite fish is?" Five pairs of eyes looked judgingly in my direction. It was the second meeting of our culinary club members, and everyone was still sizing each other up. (The joys of attending a competitive b-school...)
"Is that a serious question?" I stammered. Deciding quickly to take the self-effacing route, I confessed: "Look. I've lived most of my life in Asia. I'm not used to seeing a name next to a fish on a restaurant menu. No matter what the cuisine, they are ALL just fish ("fish with oyster sauce", "Fish in green masala", "Steamed Fish with lime and garlic"). I've never even thought about fish that way!"
Everyone around the table laughed... and probably internalized about my deprived life. But, at the end of the meal, I had my answer: Halibut. I will forever owe the restaurant, Fork, for helping me reach that realization. And, it's perhaps that association that I carry with me, 15 years later. For, whenever I dine at Fork, I always find the standout dish for me is fish - despite sampling a host of fabulous dishes.
While lamenting that our paths had only intersected infrequently over the years since that initial encounter, I mentioned my preference for the fish at Fork to the bartender, Nicholas, adding that it was the smoked monkfish (Broccoli, potatoes, scallop) that was my favorite dish from the house menu despite the visual aesthetics of the gorgeous chilled crab salad (citrus, chicories, pine nuts)... And, while we are at the subject of aesthetics, it's hard for me to forget either the handmade spaghetti with blistered cherry tomatoes, garlic chips, and grana padano that evoked the green, yellow, orange, and red colors of the Fall or the watermelon salad with green coriander yogurt, brown butter, and pickled cucumber.
As someone who loves pasta, I've really liked the seasonally changing options at Fork. While my current favorite here is the Chestnut Fettuccine with smoked mushrooms, accompanied by kale with garlic and onions and finished with a touch of butter, lemon juice, toasted breadcrumbs, and grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, I've also enjoyed the saffron Fazzoletti (with rabbit and green olives) and potato gnocchi (with lamb ragu and fermented sunchokes).
The only (mild) disappointment I've had is in the desserts I've sampled. Of the three that I've had lately (Chocolate Date Cake, Pumpkin Mousse, and Lemon Sesame), I only liked the elements of the last one: ricotta, tahini granola, and meyer lemon sorbet. But, I understand that my last two visits happened during the weeks surrounding the departure of the (then) head pastry chef, and I see that they have a very different menu now.
I've been pleasantly surprised by Fork's bar as they have some excellent cocktails, and I've enjoyed my conversations with the bartenders who are quick to share their love and enthusiasm for their craft with you. Thrilled that I could correctly pronounce, Cocchi Americano and Becherovka, I was recommended the Alpine Glow (also featuring besk, grapefruit, and honey) and later Thick As Thieves (bourbon, blood orange, rosemary, allspice). I enjoyed the latter more, but my favorite of all was The Burning of the Midnight Lamp (mezcal, green chartreuse, celery, and lime). Given the bar's strengths, I can understand why I've seen so many first dates - while seated at the bar - at times feeling like a voyeur representing Date Lab (WaPo) waiting in suspense as to whether or not the guy will order some food as well (as a sign of how well the date has gone). Hey, if you've been there for an hour already, and you haven't even asked her yet - I don't know about the girl, but I'm definitely going to judge you... ;)
The problem with familiarity is that you start taking things for granted. Many people, myself included, are surprised to learn that Fork has 4 bells from Craig Laban. But, truthfully the only thing that should surprise anyone is how consistently, effortlessly, and inconspicuously Fork has delivered excellent dining experiences for over 20 years now. For me the image that best illustrates the professionalism at Fork is of the servers quietly making their way through throngs of people and shadows to perfectly place your plate in front of you, describe minimally what the dish is about, and set you free to savor it with your senses and imagination. Timely and polite service. No fuss. No theatrics. No intrusion. (4.5 stars) read more