I remember reading that F.O.N.D. stood for Feeding Our Neighborhood Daily when they opened up back in 2019. Today, the name has evolved, paying homage to the culinary term which refers to the caramelized bits and drippings of browned food found at the bottom of the pan which when deglazed, forms the base for the dish.
ATMOSPHERE:
Located in the Napili Plaza, some will remember this as the old Koho restaurant. Totally redone, the space is airy and contemporary with a big chef's counter in the middle, small bar off to the side and low tops throughout.
MENU:
A mix of Asian, American and local Hawaiian fare.
They also have an exclusive Chef's Counter menu ($140 p/person) which happens every Sunday with two seating times, 5pm and 8pm, which we got to experience. The menu rotates every two months. We were treated the January/February 2023 menu entitled "Pele & Poli'ahu", Hawaiian goddesses of fire & ice, respectively, which was five courses.
BEVERAGE:
Napili Bae - $10.00
This vodka-based citrus quencher was so refreshing, I had to have three!
FOOD:
We started off with a refreshing amuse bouche Lava Flow Popsicle, a combination of strawberry, pineapple and coconut flavors reminiscent of a sorbet.
First course was Pristine Kusshi Oysters, artfully decorated with spicy sriracha pearls that looked like fish roe and seasoned with mignonette (shallots, pepper and vinegar). My first experience with raw oyster years ago wasn't very pleasant, but when in the hands of a professional chef, made a world of difference. Mildly briny with some heat. Small balls of hush puppies accompanied, great for putting out any fires on your palette from the sriracha.
Second course was a moist and delicate Kona Kanpachi with a nice and crispy skin, served over a creamy vichyssoise (pureed leeks, potatoes and onions). I wish I had a bigger piece!
Third course brought on French Maui Onion Soup. Filipino-inspired pandesal bread chunks replace traditional croutons. The soup was a tad salty, my only complaint of the experience.
The entrée was an Australian Wagyu Ribeye served over sizzling rice. I personally would never order a wagyu steak due to its fat content but it was very good. Some in our party commented the fried rice could've used more seasoning but I thought it was perfect and complimented the savory steak well.
And finally dessert which was Spicy Chocolate Lava, an airy cake with coconut ice cream drizzled with a spicy strawberry sauce. Very good.
SERVICE:
Chef and owner, Jojo, was gracious and professional. He, along with his apprentice, Shawn, did an excellent job at explaining and showcasing the dishes being prepared. Eliza took great care of us with drink service.
TIP:
The chef's counter experience now is totally personable and focused as the rest of the restaurant is closed for the evening.
OVERALL:
A diamond in the rough of Maui's northwest coast. read more