Do you have any idea how RARE it is for a picky, over-educated SOB like me (Kitchen education, that is. Chef for 30+ years...Y'know how they say "A little knowledge is a dangerous thing"? They don't tell you that a LOT of knowledge is WORSE.) to find ANY restaurant that lives up to its hype? Especially a chain restaurant that is, by all business standards, growing WAAAAY too fast? It's almost an article of faith: Rapid Growth + Geographic Spread = Lower Quality. It ALWAYS happens.
Except to Five Guys Burgers and Fries.
This past Saturday evening, August 1st, we went to the first Washington location, in Renton's "The Landing" shopping center, and had what can only be called a red-letter experience. In eighteen years in the Seattle area, I've had MAYBE three hamburgers that I thought were even a fair approximation of the sort of burgers I used to eat in other parts of the country. The formula is childishly simple but almost NO ONE does it: substantial patty with adequate fat content (25-30%), bun that actually tastes like something, fresh condiments, proper cooking, served HOT.
And that's what we got at 5 Guys. Their beef is high in fat, yes, but unless you're likely to start eating at 5 Guys every night of the week, I can't for the life of me see why you'd care. 5 Guys is a TREAT and should be approached as such.
Theor modified "build your own" concept is as intelligent as any I've ever seen: One patty or two, choose any or all of about a dozen condiments, price broken down by just patties and bacon and cheese. Fries are extra, a modest range of other stuff available. That's IT. I ordered two patties with bacon and cheese and was stunned to find three wide, thick, generous slices of nicely crisped, hickory-smoked bacon, instead of the paper-thin "value bacon" I've become accustomed to seeing.
The flavor of the deep, rich, satisfying beef came roaring through my range of condiments. The lettuce was crackling fresh, the pickles were garlic dills, and the onions were sweet Spanish yellows. Nothing was laid on with a heavy hand; no padding out with lettuce to make the sandwich look substantial, ala the late-unlamented Daly's. No quart glop of mayo. Just a nicely-balanced, thoughtful, properly applied group of condiments that offered all the flavors in every bite.
The cooking and prep line was a model of efficiency, with the cooks constantly talking and communicating about the orders and their expediter organizing and moving service along. Their line isn't all tarted up with the wretched excess of unnecessary bins and trays and shelves you see in most fast-food operations. Steel table, minimal clutter, easy preparation. The food gets to you HOT, which is really half the battle.
My ONLY hesitation at all was - as usual for me - the bun. 5 Guys does the standard deli-wrap thing of that foil-paper hybrid that allegedly keeps the moisture in but soaks up the excess into the paper. It DOES NOT work and I wish restaurants would quit insisting that it does. 5 Guys would be FAR better served to put the sandwich into a large, lined deli boat and serve it unwrapped, for eat-in orders. It isn't going to get cold between the counter and the table but it WILL get soggy that fast. My bun fell apart before I ever got the sandwich out of the wrapper. The bun tasted good when I did get it to my mouth - that, in itself, a rarity on the order of the narwahl whale - but a little thinking would have prevented the one and only sour note in an otherwise wonderful evening.
The last two burgers on our Burger of The Month search could scarcely have been more different. Jak's, a restaurant I love for fine-dining entrees, left me completely cold with their over-thought, under-realized steakhouse burger. I ate it, it tasted okay, and I left thinking: Meh. Leaving 5 Guys, I was tempted to applaud. A Real Burger from a REAL Burger Joint! What's next? Real NY-style pizza? read more