Since I've had Cosme and Pujol on my hit list for years now, as soon as I heard Enrique Olvera had opened up a casual taco joint, I rushed right over to Esse. On the Friday night before the big opening party, there was a short line out the front, but it moved pretty quickly with two touchscreens for self service check out. My partner and I picked up the ribeye steak, pork loin al pastor, and the chicken poc chuc, done up gringa style, with one traditional to try out the corn tortilla.
Al pastor, which is usually my favorite taco, was a letdown here and definitely the weakest of the trio. The pork loin is a bit dry and lacking in flavor, which is missing from both the pork itself and the al pastor rub. Weirdly, this one is topped with a roughly chopped salsa, that tasted mostly of mint, which did not go well with the pork. I didn't taste any pork or pineapple, mostly just cheese and mint. This taco did taste a bit better with a healthy sprinkle of extra salt.
The beef had me skeptical at first since it comes out in an anemic looking sliver (thinnest slice of ribeye I've ever seen, outside of a fancied up cheesesteak), but it ended up being the best of the ones we tried and one of the best steak tacos in the city. Even though beef is my go to across nearly all cuisines, I tend to shy away from it when it comes to tacos unless it's tex mex fajita style since carne asada tends to get cooked well done, with all meaty taste blasted away. Here, the meat has a strong beefy flavor without being gamey and it melds perfectly with the cheese. My only wish is that this came with a healthier dollop of the salsa guacachile.
The chicken is most surprising - I usually don't get chicken because it inevitably ends up dry, but upon seeing that the one here is thigh meat, I decided to take a chance and I'm glad I did. The thigh is so nice and juicy, really flavorful, and there's a healthy helping of the salsa guacachile, which approaches my platonic ideal for a red/orange sauce.
The corn tortilla is twice as thick as an average corn tortilla, but super pillowy soft and the thickness is needed since they only use one tortilla instead of a more typical two for corn. As corn tortillas go, this one is pretty great, without the roughness that usually turns me off of corn.
The four tortillas, however, are even better, incredibly thin with the perfect amount of chew. This has shot straight up to the top of my list of favorite tortillas in the city. The cheese they use for gringa style is just flavorful enough to bring a cheesy funk without overwhelming the meat. Highly recommend going gringa for all tacos here.
The piña canela agua fresca has too strong of a cinnamon-y hit for me, but I love that it's kinda pulpy, which boosts the pineapple. The margarita is super tart and strong.
I was excited to try the more casual twist on the signature Cosme Corn Husk Meringue. Ever since I heard about it years ago, I've wanted to go to Cosme and here's the change to try it at a fraction of the price! The meringue itself is pretty mild, just a hint of corn. The ice cream tastes very corny at first, but as you eat it, it tastes milder like vanilla ice cream. The texture is a bit thick, almost like a clumpy pudding and there's little bits of salty cream, that gives the sundae a "cheffy" feel. Definitely worth getting, but I wish it were even cornier - perhaps a bit more of the cream would help.
The flour tortillas alone make this a spot worth visiting - I'll be back for more of the steak and chicken, but may have to hit up another spot ahead of time for my al pastor fix. read more