It's been interesting to see the changes to this place over the years. I always remembered this place as Than Thanh, one of many Vietnamese restaurants in the now massive Viet scene in Portland. It eventually became Thai Viet, a condensed semi-mediocre version of it's predecessor, before reincarnating into the China Wind Bookstore which remained for years until the current owners stepped in to drop "bookstore" and add "restaurant" to it converting a former magazine / book shop into a full fledged, Portland divey Chinese restaurant.
It really is divey, but not dirty (yes, there is a difference!). Decor is certainly on the minimum and the place can't fit more than a few small groups of people. The carpet makes me feel like I'm eating in someone's home, which for most situations is a good thing.
It seems the staff is primarily Toisanese (Mando: Taishan), a southern Chinese group of people credited with being the first wave of Chinese immigrants in America. There are none too few Toisan folks roaming the joint, an occurrence that sticks out in Portland where the Chino make up is less variable as they are in larger cities. When it gets too busy, the place is slow to clean up, which only means they're understaffed. There is always one main lady waitress and a helper, all mild mannered and very friendly.
Even though I've been here a handful of times, I can't say the food is all that earth shattering. It's more of a neighborhood joint than it is a restaurant one would go out of their way to eat at. The menu, like many others in Portland, is an even split when it comes to American-Chinese and southern Chinese dishes. Often times we'll have to ask for things that aren't even printed. Where are the Chinese only "menu" in the form of scribbled characters and various colored papers? That wall looks pretty bare.
The dishes that have been consistent enough to eat on repeat:
Jiu pai chow mein (Mando: zhu pai chao mian), an extra "seafoody" version of hoi sein chow mein (pan fried seafood noodle), which just means an extra scallop or squid made it in the pile of seafood over a crispy and often times greasy layer of egg noodles.
Fu gua ngau yuk (Mando: ku gua niu rou) or bitter melon beef, usually has tender pieces of beef all fairly well cut and chewy minus the toughness. Bitter melon is an acquired taste not for the gringo palate, but is quite tasty in this dish.
Jiu yim yau yu (Mando: Jiu yan xin yu) or salt pepper squid, is not my favorite but folks who often dine with me enjoy this dish. Sometimes it feels a little too bready but a solid job otherwise.
Choy yu ban kau (Mando: cai yu ban qiu) or sauteed flounder with veggies, is sometimes often served with tofu, which soaks up most of the flavor, as opposed to the flounder fish, which is sometimes too salty not to add rice.
In the end, China Wind is a solid Chinese restaurant on this side of Portland. It may not be the best, but it's certainly among the most reasonable price wise. And for many folks, that's usually more than enough. read more