Let's all own up because everyone is guilty here: pigs get a bad rap. That slightly overweight girl you used to see was called porky by your friends. She might also be a porker if they need a noun. Cops you don't like become pork-like, and so on...But all this is really unfair to pigs, because reports are that they make fine house pets in addition to excellent breakfast food cooked up in fatty strips.
Fortunately, there are some places where pork gets its due, and Memphis is one. Opinions vary, but most piggy experts would put Memphis right up near the top as a BBQ mecca, alongside Little Rock and Kansas City. And you cannot talk BBQ without talking pork. You can keep your yardbird and your beef tips. To me, and to others I know, you spell barbeque P-O-R-K. One year the BBQ fest of Memphis used the slogan, "make pork, not war" for their 60s-era theme. You get the point, you got to have a plate of pork to call it BBQ in my presence. Otherwise, it is "grilled chicken with sauce"or "veal in spicy tomato paste", and many serve something called BBQ spaghetti, but none to me are BBQ if they don't begin and end with pork.
So what's an outsider to do while yelping in Memphis? find some friends with similar taste in fine dining, line up three highly-regarded pig palaces for their pork plate, their ribs, and their coleslaw, then bullshit one another while all compare and contrast. Call it Pork-Palooza as my friend did, and you have a fine afternoon of pigging out and giving a level playing field to three popular BBQ troughs, Central BBQ, Interstate BBQ, and Corky's BBQ. Full disclosure: because it was Sunday our options were somewhat limited to those places that were open in order to assure freshness. (In one places case, sadly, that did not completely solve the issue). Although nothing was unanimous, there was consensus on two of three categories. Any tie-breaker was broken by me, of course, because hey, this is my review, and everyone is entitled to my opinion.
Best Pork: I'm going Central here, with a close second nod to Corky's. I now know that there are 3 varieties of bulk piggy sold: pulled pork (which is generally larger than fork sized, which is fine in sandwiches but tough covered in sauce on a plate without a knife); and chopped pork that is pulled off the bone with tongs and then chopped to bite-sized morsels, and sliced pork. Central goes chopped, Corky's the slightly more unwieldy -- but more moist -- pulled. Both were divine. I could eat either several times per week without complaint, Central's slightly smokier, and well, ok, whatever, just slightly better. Interstate was a distant 3rd on pork, and while the flavor was there, it seemed to have spent more time under the heat lamp than had the other two.
Best Ribs: Corky's, hands down, the dry-rubbed pork ribs were incredibly tender and the seasonings could not be beat. Although I was inclined to go old-school (I mean really: ribs without sauce-mess?) I grudgingly agree with my friends that these were best. There was one hold out that could no more see and enjoy baby-backs without sauce than I could BBQ without pork. Its a good point, and one I would have agreed with before eating. But the taste test does not lie; Corky's ribs rock and you can always sauce upon serving. Interstate's ribs were notable for one thing: they were barely edible they were so dry and tough. No amount of their excellent spicy sauce made up for just plain poor ribs.
Best Coleslaw: Interstate. Perhaps because freshness is not as crucial here but flavor is king, Interstate's coleslaw takes first prize. Mustard-y and peppery, this is not a mild slaw for the faint of heart, this is a yellow-looking flavorful forkful. If mild and milky is your thing, you will best like Corky's. But lets face it, when at Pork Palooza taking the blue ribbon for coleslaw is a little like commenting on Kennedy's otherwise peaceful ride through Dallas.
So deciding on where to pig out in Memphis when you don't live there and cannot get to them all, make a special point of getting to Central. Why? Because Corky;s can come to you. Much of their menu is available at local area Kroger's food stores and can travel. Indeed, after travelling though security on my way home I could have eaten at the Memphis Airport branch Corky's also. No such luck with the less chain-like Central. There is one location, and everyone seems to know each other there, which is a tell; rarely will locals with educated pork palates go back repeatedly unless it is very good. And it is!
Opposing points of view are often welcomed, and always ignored.
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