I realize that I could get burned at the stake for this blasphemy, but I am seriously still scratching my head at all the hype that Central BBQ gets. Even from trusted personal sources, I don't understand how Central gets consistently branded as "the best bbq in Memphis." I haven't had all the BBQ in Memphis - in fact, I've only tried one other place (and was underwhelmed with the food, but blown away by the customer service). At Central, I was underwhelmed by both the food and lack of customer service (it was borderline surly).
My BFF, a sworn meat-hater, RAVES about the ribs at Central as one of the best things about her four-year stint as a grad student at SCO (I haven't the heart to tell her that I thought they were just okay at best). A coworker insisted on my first day ever in Memphis that I needed to check it out (granted, he emphasized the downtown location, which I didn't go to). The hotel clerk stipulated that "tourists go to Rendezvous [I haven't tried it yet], but locals go to Central." A local broker was genuinely surprised at my dislike of the food and then recovered by saying "oh, I never go for the ribs, I just go for the nachos". Madness. I go to Mexican for nachos. BBQ is about the
MEAT, dammit.
I arrived for a late lunch and Central looks ljke what one would expect a local fave bbq dive to look like. I ordered at the counter, got my water, sat, waited with my order number. I had thankfully missed the lunch crowd (I guess they have one?) and had no problem finding a seat. Someone brought my food out and took my table number without a word. It was a surly, dismal environment - even as I was leaving, I overheard a worker half arguing/half apologizing to a patron that he hadn't intended to be rude about something. It was just uncomfortable since the whole time there was this palpable sense that nobody wanted to be there.
I ordered a half rack of ribs, half wet/half dry, with cole slaw and greens. The ribs had good flavor and were mostly tender and fall-off-the bone - EXCEPT that they still had that nasty silver lining on the back of the bones. I'm no bbq expert but even I know that is a sloppy no-no (Myron Mixon would be hollering at that). I didn't taste any difference in flavor profile between the dry and sauced ribs - draw your own conclusions from that. The greens had a good flavor but also the taste and consistency of something in a baby's diaper (you can also draw your own conclusions from that). After two bites I didn't waste my time on the slaw - it was warm and sour, and it was mayonnaise-based so it shouldn't have been either. Overall, wretched execution of all three items, and after shelling out $18 for such a lauded bbq place I left feeling ripped off.
So maybe Central IS the best bbq in Memphis, in which case I'll steer away from it when I am in town and stick with the hot chicken (Uncle Lou's, son!) or loaded cheese grits (Brother Junipers, you sexy beast). The only reason I am giving it two stars instead of one is because I would possibly give Central another go at the downtown location (but if it's as bad as this location, than screw it). read more