Bottom line: Brenner Pass has only been open for a week, and there are still some rough edges on the service. The meal we had was very good.
Brenner Pass is located in Scott's Addition, nestled among the old warehouses toward the back of the old industrial area. The space itself appears larger than it really is -- high ceilings, intelligent layout, oversized bar area and open concept on the public areas all combine to make the room inviting and feel uncrowded even when full. We arrived for a 7:30 PM reservation and were promptly seated. There were perhaps two or three open tables besides ours, so it was pretty full. The bar area was full but not overcrowded. The clientele was dressed in everything -- shorts, skirts, long dresses, shirt and tie, jeans.
The menu looks very good, and there are a number of things we want to come back and try. Last night we settled on sharing the fondue (gruyere and emmentaller cheese with an accompanying plate of baguette chunks, fingerling potatoes, cornichon pickles, and speck.) The menu advised it was to serve 2 to 4 people. It was a generous portion for two, but would be a light to mid appetizer if you really tried to share four ways. Served without fondue forks, we were left to decide whether to use our silverware or hand-dip the various components. Everything did just fine on the dinner forks, though the bread was tough enough to be a bit awkward on the forks. I was concerned that there was not enough cheese for the meal, but it was really just fine. The flame died underneath the pot long before the fondue was eaten, so it was a bit of a race to finish before the cheese hardened. Still, I suppose this is better than overheating and burning it. Upon serving it the waiter advised us that the restaurant was trying a new heating source for the fondue this evening because there had been complaints that the prior method wasn't hot enough, so if the cheese got too hot let them know. No one came back to check on whether this was the case until we were about done, so it is fortunate that the concern was unwarranted. I will not go into any more details on service as it would be piling on, other than to say that a greater familiarity with the menu and components will serve the wait staff well. I am confident that this will resolve itself as this new restaurant gets more days of experience under its belt. Anyway, the fondue -- delicious. Well balanced cheese without the overuse of kirsch that tempts some folks preparing cheese fondue. The potatoes, speck, and cornichons were excellent with it. Not mentioned on the menu but included on the plate were cocktail onions. These were fantastic as a contrast with the rest of the plate.
Next we had a salad course. I had the Fragola Salad (Lollo Rosso, strawberry, cherry peppers, straciatella, pistachios, whey vinaigrette) that was a really nice, sharp follow up to the fondue. The sweetness of the strawberries and the coolness of the dressing was a good mix with the bite of the cherry peppers. My wife had the Salad Lyonaisse (Frisee, bacon, soft boiled egg, mustard) that was even better - I could eat that often. $12 is a bit high for a salad, but what can you do?
We had decided to leave and get dessert elsewhere when my wife spied a souffle across the room. So we sat. Her dulcey souffle with creme anglaise was perfect - as airy and rich as you could hope. My honey budino was even better, decadent even. A thick honey custard topped with a wonderful tuile and the perfect amount of strawberry sorbet. The desserts were in my mind the best part of the meal.
Cocktails (we didn't have them) looked interesting. Also we spied the burger on a table nearby -- good sized and apparently perfectly cooked with a crusty exterior and pink center. Maybe next time.
Overall, the meal was a success. Total ticket: two teas, one fondue, two salads, two desserts totaled $95 before tip. read more