Blue Cave is ready for Buffalo. Is Buffalo ready for Blue Cave?
I am first generation Italian and rarely eat at Italian places, because I have been spoiled by the food in Italy, and my family and I cook (Northern) Italian food all the time. But for some reason, I had a serious craving for Italian food on my most recent birthday. I considered both this place and DiTondo, and Blue Cave won that bid for this occasion.
I fear I cannot adequately describe the beauty and delicacy of these dishes. Even now, I fail, because you may think based on those descriptors that the food was sophisticated and painstakingly created, but not hearty. No, this is real, authentic food with a backbone to it, perfectly done. The grilled octopus on I believe parsnip puree may be the best octopus I have ever had, or ties for first place with an octopus dish I had in Naples (Not-Florida) ten years ago.
The appetizer course is where this restaurant shines the brightest, imo. Everything was outstanding, from the arancini (fried rice balls with a oozing mozzarella core) to the chickpea-based pannelle. You know a restaurant is good when the fried items have a light as air quality. But even the cold, stewed eggplant and olive dish capponata surprised me with how perfectly cooked it was, with none of the components losing their shape in the least despite their softness. Finally, a small serving of burrata was included in the platter, for yes, all of the above mentioned items, except the octopus, are part of the same appetizer sampler platter. Next time I will order each individually.
Main courses: the bracciole is a good option if you want pasta (what appeared to be home made orecchiette) but also want to try one of their meat offerings. Their red sauce, mostly tomato but slow cooked with meat, is ideal. It's not a ragu, not so thick, but it has a wonderful consistency, not too heavy or too thin, and what a wonderful taste. The bracciole themselves were extremely tender and flavorful.
A friend ordered the squid ink risotto with shrimp, and that was perhaps the most physically stunning item of the night. Blackness of squid ink, scattered green of crushed pistachio, pink curls of shrimp, again, perfectly cooked!
Finally, the dessert course. I was brought a complimentary almond semifreddo that was just the thing, and just the right size given we had appetizers and a main courses with the meal, though some may find it petite. Me, I like little desserts. My friend ordered the cannolo (known as cannoli in the states, though that's actually the plural form of the word ) and it was perfect: not too sweet and studded with pistachio bits. It was a little larger. I would like to see more classic Sicilian and southern Italian desserts, like rhum baba, but I don't know if they would be popular.
I hope this restaurant thrives. There may be room for growth in some areas (more creative custom cocktails.....and gigantic aperitivo selection, perhaps? Oh, and maybe regular early afternoon to 6 PM appetizer-and- wine/spritz happy hour specials in the summertime?! Some thoughts). But it's so nice to experience an adventurous yet traditional, and thrillingly competent, Italian restaurant in Buffalo: one that doesn't bash you over the head with excess garlic or use parmesan cheese when it should be pecorino romano. Furthermore, while also I love Italian American food, we have enough good places like that in Buffalo, and plenty of bad ones. Let Blue Cave be great, on its own terms: don't force it to assimilate, enjoy its unusualness, which is mostly Chef Mario (who is in fact Sicilian) cooking the foods that have been made in Southern Italy for centuries in the same way....with a skill level that is leaps and bounds above average!
But don't take my word for it. Just order the appetizer sampler and you'll get a sense of what I'm going on and on and on about... read more