We arrived at about 6:30 on a Saturday night with no reservation. The hostess took our information, including a phone number, and gave us an estimate for how long it would be until a table opened up and said they would call us. I like this system, it beats the heck out of being leashed with a short range pager or worse, being made to hang out in front. We went to the pub a couple doors down and had a pint while we waited.
The phone call came right on time and we were seated at a table with ample space and some tasteful decoration. If I had to register a complaint, it's that the chairs were a little bit close around the back and it made them a bit uncomfortable. I sat forward in my chair so my elbows wouldn't knock against the frame.
We ordered the Tom Kha Kai, the caramelized ginger ribs, and the duck larb, as well as lao iced coffees. The server asked us how spicy we'd like the larb, and we ordered "spicy". He asked "Lao spicy?" and added that "Lao spice is a level above Thai spicy". We went with Lao spicy. For a cocktail I ordered an old fashioned, they make theirs with a lemon peel and a basil leaf. It was refreshing and an interesting take on the cocktail, though the basil was overwhelmed by the orange.
The soup arrived first, with two spoons but no additional bowl, so we had to carefully carry our spoon across the table. Next time we will make sure to ask for two bowls. It was well balanced and had the velvety coconut milk texture that sets a good tom kha apart, as well as a few different types of tomatoes which did not leach into the soup and provided a nice juicy bite here and there. The mushrooms were delicate and silky and there were no chunks of galangal, which I enjoyed as I find the woody character of the root to be disruptive to such a smooth soup.
Next were the ribs, which had a good smoky base accenting the ginger flavor of the sauce. The ribs pulled loose from the meat with a little effort, as they should. Meat falling off the bone is not only a sign of an overcooked rib, it's also dancing with disaster should you be wearing, say, a white shirt. A few sprigs of asparagus garnished this dish as well as the larb, and it was cooked to the firm side of al dente.
The larb was last. We ordered it with the "traditional" addition of pork skin, chicken livers, and chicken gizzards on the side as my wife has strong feelings about liver, and I added them to my portion of the dish along with a squeeze of lime. Lao spicy is no joke. While quite hot, I was not ever in pain though I did sweat a bit. I recommend going with "Thai" spice or less because the heat does disrupt the nuance of the dish, which was one of the best larbs I've had the pleasure of tasting. Rather than the ground meat that is usually used, they start with thinly sliced meat which is seared, then mixed with the rest of the ingredients. I found their use of mint leaves to be especially skillful.
When our waiter (whose name I unfortunately missed) came to clear our plates, we had a good discussion of the characteristics of the food. I was glad to see that the staff is so excited and knowledgeable about the food served. After exchanging thoughts on the pros and cons of a spicy larb, he brought by a drink of coconut milk, simple syrup, and soda water which cleared away the last embers in my mouth like a miracle.
Overall, Bida Manda has good atmosphere, attentive and knowledgeable service, and thoughtful, interesting, well portioned, and excellently executed dishes. Five stars for all this, despite the minor hiccups detailed above. read more