What's striking about The Local Company is that it isn't more celebrated amidst Toronto's hyper-locavore culture. Is it the location? East of the DVP feel like it's too far for some who associate the area with souvlaki joints and loud bars. Indeed, it is a tough area for the fine (if equally casual) dining establishment The Local Co. aims to be. A white, resplendent space with high chairs and wood tables, it is an oddly elegant spot that serves delicious, rustic food. Its location lends it a casual atmosphere but, simultaneously a party-ish vibe later on. No wonder their Facebook page has so many photos of late-night revelry; you have to make a name somehow, I suppose.
And yet Chef Trevor Middleton, who left The Boilerhouse in the Distillery a while back, deserves far more credit than late-night purveyor of nibbles. A dedicated, curious, and fiercely passionate chef, he imbues every single thing that come out of his kitchen with a love only the most dedicated of foodies understand. Appetizers like baked brie (usually overdone -here, buttery and smooth, served with a basic, fresh, seasonal-fruit compote) and goat cheese (with carmelized onions -heavenly) are given every bit as much love and care as mains, and are large enough to share.
Mains include poultry, meats, and vegetarian selections. My stuffed chicken was among the most tender, carefully-cooked breast I've enjoyed. Lovingly filled with goat cheese, it was definitely a wise recommendation from the knowledgeable, witty waiter who served us. My companion's lamb was equally tender and flavourful, set carefully in a puddle of its own yummy juices. Just delicious.
If there's one recommendation I have, it's for the kitchen to portion plates accordingly; after two huge appetizers, I felt overwhelmed at the portion of the main, and not a little guilty in leaving so much of it, especially since it was so good. Same goes for the desserts -too much of a good thing i sometimes just... too much.
However, The Local Co. offers astoundingly good value for the quality; Chef Middleton is truly passionate about cooking, and it shows. It was nice to observe him chatting with guests and addressing their questions about their meal and the restaurant. Equally, it's encouraging to see the positive rapport between service and kitchen staff -there's a noticeable cohesion of objectives and a dedication towards a quality experience. Now if only they could get away from those silly party pictures.
**It should be noted that Chef Trevor Middleton is no longer at The Local Company, ergo, I cannot recommend it. This place rose or fell based around the quality of its kitchen, and until I make a return visit, I can't make a judgment.** read more