We've dined at Virtus twice, once in 2019 just after they received their Michelin star and again in 2023. We absolutely loved our initial experience. The food was amazing, the ambiance was pleasing and the service was excellent.
In 2023 we had a different experience. We wanted to love it as much as the first time, but we came away a bit disappointed for the following reasons.
The value was poor. At 135 euro for the seven course option, we felt it was not a good value.
Each of the courses was certainly very fancy and put together with tweezers, involved things like fish eggs and edible flowers and bright green purées and drizzles of various oils: these are the symbols of starred restaurants these days it seems.
The problem is there was too little "meat on the bone." We walked out of there paying $600 for a family of four, and we weren't served a single impressive or costly ingredient. There was no enormous scallop, giant shrimp, or even sashimi grade fish tartare (or any fish at all). There was no course of duck or prime beef filet or any other valuable protein.
Usually these tasting menus build up from lighter courses to a climax of the main protein entree followed by a couple of dessert courses. This menu was filled with the early type of vegetable courses, and none involved truffles or anything prized or rare. The only protein-heavy courses were a very soft-boiled chicken egg with a purely liquid center with some fish eggs on top (this dish was pretty but didn't taste good). The other protein dish was the final course before the desserts, the 'main entree course,' which was veal sweetbreads.
Sweetbreads are ok, but the grand finale of a pricy tasting menu should involve some fresh high end protein like filet of beef, a large scallop, a giant shrimp, some lobster, a duck breast; something more than cow thymus.
Some of the courses were over engineered with too many ingredients and flavors such that they started to taste like nothing. It's hard to explain this phenomenon, but it's real. When too many different items are put together on a small plate, it can cause some sort of sensory opposition, or noise cancellation. There must be a name for this effect of which I'm not aware, but I've experienced it before. Several of the dishes would have tasted better and had more flavor if one or two ingredients, perhaps **any** one or two of the ingredients, would have been omitted.
On departing we walked past some diners at an adjacent bistro who were eating a beautiful cut of beef and we were envious, even though we were overstuffed with fancy food composed of inexpensive ingredients and definitely not hungry.
The waitstaff were very attentive and pleasant. They were not knowledgeable about the ingredients of the food. We didn't ask them probing questions about any of the courses. But when they arrived at the table to present each dish and spoon on various sauces on each one (this process was a lot of fun), they then introduced each dish and a couple of times they stumbled and couldn't remember what they had memorized to say about each plate. We of course smiled and said thank you and ate and enjoyed. But there was a bit of room for improvement in this regard.
Finally, we have two children. When we dined in 2019, the chef was extremely kind and prepared a separate menu for them that was fewer courses and aimed at a simpler palate and smaller appetite. This time the chef, who is different (French man in 2023 rather than Japanese woman in 2019) didn't offer any different or smaller options for our kids, who are still in elementary school, prepubescent, and don't eat adult volumes. So, given no other choice we got our kids the same adult tasting menu we got for ourselves. This was ok, but we appreciated the unexpected consideration the Japanese chef afforded us in 2019.
We wanted to love Virtus as much as we did the first time around, but we couldn't. If we come back again, we'll ask to check the menu in advance to see if it will include some high quality protein courses and we advise you to do similarly. read more