I've just had one of my best meals yet in Cambridge, in the somewhat more formal category (£40 per head Sunday a la carte, 3 courses, including tip but no wine).
My starter was a sort of terrine of smoked trout and beetroot, with a dollop of horseradish cream. It was light, tangy, well-balanced and attractively presented, original but not outlandish. My companion was similarly pleased with her grilled mackerel.
We both had roast pork belly for the main course, but my friend had the Sunday version, which came with a copious plateful of traditional English vegetables, Yorkshire pudding and gravy. Mine was the more exotic standard menu version, with cellophane vermicelli, chilli, crunchy green beans and hazelnuts. In both cases, the pork was ideally crispy-skinned, meltingly tender and compactly meaty. My vermicelli were an excellent accompaniment, again bright and tangy, not cloying despite the richness of the dish, and perfectly balanced.
We both had dessert - panna cotta with crumble for her, coffee-chocolate ganache for me. Again, no disappointment. My ganache was densely flavoured but not oversweet, pleasantly contrasted with acidulated raspberries and smooth vanilla cream.
Only the coffee at the end could have been improved. For this level of meal, I'd have expected a speculoos biscuit or a chocolate almond.
The service was discrete, helpful and rapid. The restaurant itself is small and a little cramped, but well located and accessible. It is recommended to make a reservation. read more