Many years ago, my parents moved to Michigan (I had little to say about it besides "Not the Mama" or "Gotta love me!") and all the relatives were still back in the Land of Cheese. Every summer, at least once and sometimes twice, The Old Man would pack us up into his old Buick and we would head for Ludington, for a trip across the lake on the C&O Car Ferry. It was big fun for a little kid, to watch railroad cars get loaded aboard the big ships, then strain to see if it was possible to see Michigan and Wisconsin while cruising.
Our cruises were aboard one of four car ferries, the Pere Marquette 21, Pere Marquette 22, the City of Flint 32, or the City of Midland 41. I remember listening in wide-eyed wonder to my Uncle Bob, who lived in Manitowoc, as he told us about the ship we had just sailed on, how it had been built in Manitowoc. He explained how the Pere Marquette 21 and the PM 22 had been brought into Manitowoc and cut in half so enough length could be added to have it carry more railroad cars.
Now, Uncle Bob was a captivating story teller, and sometimes it was tough to decide where the truth stopped and the baloney started, like when he told us there were alligators in the little lake near Grandma's (where we went fishing and swimming) so we had to be alert for them. Naturally, we didn't believe alligators in the lake or that car ferries were built in Manitowoc, and we really rolled our eyes when he told us they built submarines in Manitowoc, too.
Imagine growing older and learning all of it was true! Well, not the part about the alligators but the rest was true, the car ferries and how the Pere Marquettes got cut in half, and how 28 WWII submarines were built right there in Manitowoc! Imagine my surprise when I learned the high school mascot was the Manitowoc Shipbuilders. (Nowadays, they're just the Ships.)
That was the golden age of the car ferries plying Lake Michigan, and "cars" had nothing to do with automobiles but everything to do with railroad cars. Oh, yes, they took passengers and their autos, but their main purpose was railroad freight.
By 1970, railroading was beginning to change and by the end of the decade, the era of the car ferry was pretty much done. My beloved Pere Marquette 21 and 22 got cut down to barges, the City of Flint 32 was sold to the Norfolk and Western Railway Company and cut down to a river ferry barge and renamed Roanoke. The City of Midland was sold to another company and last I heard, it sank in the Carribean.
Two ferries survived for some reason, the SS Badger and SS Spartan. In 1953, the C&O contracted with Christy in Sturgeon Bay to build the two ferries that would become the queens of the fleet. They sailed between Milwaukee and Ludington. We were disappointed we couldn't sail aboard the Queens of Lake Michigan.
At the end, the two ships were purchased by a man who envisioned returning the two ferries to the old routes for the pleasure cruisers and to carry heavy trucks, especially oversize loads, so the trucks could avoid the mess that surrounds the southern end of Lake Michigan. (You can read about him in the museum on board and he is memorialized as a cartoon caricature that appears here and there aboard the Badger.)
Last week, I was able to cruise Lake Michigan aboard the Badger so the Badger and I became reacquainted. This was my third voyage on the Badger (two west and one east) since it began sailing as the Lake Michigan Ferry.
It's like old times, well, sort of. The Badger is very modern compared to her old sister ships. Modern? Built in 1953? Okay, a newer antique I suppose, the last coal-fired ferry on the Great Lakes, in fact, maybe the last coal fired ship on the Great Lakes. (The coal industry was a major customer of the C&O Railroad, so what other fuel would they have used?)
The Pere Marquette ships had been built in the 1920s and were loaded with Art Deco decor and fixtures. They were absolute queens, and it broke my heart to hear they were all but scrapped. The Badger has all kinds of features that scream "1950s!" but she has been modernized with flat screen televisions in the lounge areas (with satellite programming) food service, and there's a bar. The kids can do a scavenger hunt around the ship and there's even a Bingo game in one of the lounges.
Me? I'd rather sleep. Easy enough to do until the kid in the row behind me begins kicking the seat. So, I went to take more photos.
Well, why not? We were in that part of Lake Michigan where neither Michigan nor Wisconsin can be seen. Oh sure, you can see both shores at 35,000 feet in the airplane, but you can't have your car along. My car is about 50' below me and will be waiting for me when I get ashore. Take the Badger - relax instead of getting tensed up at the bottom end of Lake Michigan. Just do it. You'll thank me later! read more