Last night I had the distinct pleasure of attending the Anna's Vesuviano Tonno dinner…read more
This dinner was conceived when Chef Anthony got some beautiful tuna from American Seafood, based out of Stonington, CT. It was a menu created around the relationship between bread and seafood in southern Italy.
As a culinarian by trade, I love dinners like this. I love seeing how a chef's mind works, the flavor pairings, and going on that journey with them. Last night was a wonderful example of that.
I attended the dinner solo, my usual cohorts at a different dinner taking place in the city. But I don't mind solo dining. The best part about being solo last night? I was sat at the bar front and center, a veritable chef's table without the high price tag
I paid the extra for wine pairings, and they were generous with those pours all night. Our glasses were filled before every course. The hospitality was warm, the service team made everyone feel at home. The interior had a retro feel, with pressed tin ceilings, counter seating along the windows and a tall bar by the kitchen.
The first course was a tuna croquette, a smoked yellow fish canola (cone) and tuna crudo with pickled yellow tomatoes. The croquette crispy outside, and so, so creamy inside. The yellowfish cone had lovely textures, the pistachio crunch coming through nicely. The crudo was delicate and tender, the picked tomato bringing the perfect level of acidity.
The second course was a Caserta style pizza. No, not the icon on Federal Hill. But pizza montanara - one that is fried and then baked, popularized in the Campania region of Italy and in the town of (you guessed it) Caserta. The first thing you taste is the Sicilain oregano. The crust is crispy but still had give. No flop if that matters. The tomatoes blanched and precisely peeled so they gave easily when you bit into it. The olives and capers paired with the tuna was like an Italian Nicoise pizza. A great eating experience.
Next was the Tuna Fattoush, the salad course. The tomatoes tasted like peak summer when I bit into them. Tang from the lime, the mint almost floral with the sumac, the vinegar soaked bread buttery, tart. The tuna coming in the back end bringing the dish together in a magical way.
The Mrs Tuna pizza intrigued me. I didn't know what to expect when I saw black dough. But what I experienced was wonderful. Soft dark bread with creamy stracciatella, and the tuna tartar on top sang against the creamy base. You can taste the burnt notes from the mayo but only in the background. It accented the dish, deepening the flavors in an unexpected way.
Bufala mozz course was bright, tangy, salty. I didn't think I'd describe mozzarella as bright but here we are. It was a burst of flavor as soon as it hit my tongue. My taste buds lit up immediately. It was made by Lucas at Mozz in Newport. Go find some and try it immediately.
Vesuvius pizza. Wow. I had only experienced Anna's through their various seafood pizza specials. This was my first time trying a classic. San Marzano tomatoes from Mt Vesuvius. 48 month aged Parmesan, the same beautiful fresh mozzarella we had in the previous course, basil and a hefty drizzle of high quality Palestinian olive oil. If you ever wondered what the most perfect Margherita was like, this is it. It's like it was cut out of a textbook. The crust was delicious as always, it's sourdough. The cook was crisp and even with the edge still soft and chewy.
And finally dessert. Lemon and basil make sense on savory but I realized how special it can be in sweet. The sumac adding floral notes to the smooth custard and the cool basil gel, a study in flavor conception.
Every time I go to Anna's, I continue to be impressed by Chef Anthony and his culinary genius. I know to most, this menu would seem odd or outside of the box for pizza. To a certain extent, that is true. But if you are brave enough to take a leap of faith, I have found I'm often rewarded with the most scrumptious landing. And to say I was rewarded last night for my leap would be an understatement. Thank you again for an incredible dinner, Chef Anthony, Michelle and the team at Anna's Vesuviano.