After having a transcendent experience at Sushi Noz back in March of 2022, we hoped to come again to sit with Nozomu Abe. Unfortunately, Abe-san was out of town this January so we opted for Noz 17 instead as it also recently gained a Michelin star.
This is definitely a different experience than Sushi Noz; the courses are more varied and the structure is different from Sushi Noz. Sushi Noz first serves a set of otsumami, then consecutive pieces of nigiri. Chef Matsuzaki at Noz 17 has a varied structure and cadence. He is definitely less shy than Abe-san but also is a great craftsman nonetheless.
From my recollection, the rice of the shari here is less pearl-like than the shari rice at Sushi Noz but it was still excellent. The disbursement of the grains, the warm shari temperature, and sharp red vinegar were evident in all of the nigiri. We actually went to Ginza Onodera on 5th avenue the following morning; I had to reduce a star in my upcoming review of Ginza Onodera because even though the akazu shari was pearl-like and had excellent disbursement, the temperature was much colder than preferred from the nigiri that were prepared in what I describe as a "brigade" style. This means that the shari for all guests in the party were formed at the same time and by that point, the rice turns quite cold. I am glad that at both Sushi Noz and Noz 17, all nigiri are served and formed one by one. My observations are very much hair splitting, but at these incredibly high priced meals, these slight nuances are under intense scrutiny and magnification. I was pleased that Matsuzaki-san confirmed the use of Yokoi yohei akazu after the meal concluded as this is the most coveted and prized red vinegar used at many Michelin rated omakase establishments around the world.
Anyways, on the menu for the evening were the following: shirako tofu, kohada nigiri, buri sashimi, ankimo wrapped in hirame, mizutako sashimi, chawanmushi with Hokkaido crab, kasugodai nigiri, sawara sashimi, female seiko kani, aori ika with shaved bottarga, a medley of bafun uni, kazunoko, karasumi, ebimo, kaburamushi, masunosuke nigiri, iwashi nigiri, kamasu oshizushi, abura bozu, akami nigiri, Hokkaido otoro nigiri, fried anago, tamago, fish broth, dried persimmon, and hojicha.
What I found funny was that the initial course featured shirako in a tofu form; it is quite clear that the non-Asian diners with us (which was 5 versus our 2) probably didn't understand what it was as the chef quickly glossed over the description of the course as featuring milt. I'm sure it wouldn't sound as appetizing if it was explicitly described as "seminal fluid from cod fish" to each diner.
The clear favorite from the set of nigiri was the iwashi (sardine). The cutting technique of the neta was very similar to what we had at Yoshino back from the prior March. Nonetheless, this piece of hikarimono was divine. The fattiness and bright flavor of the sardine paired so well with the akazu from the shari. The other nigiri featured in the meal included kohada, kasugodai, aori ika, masunosuke, bluefin akami, and Hokkaido bluefin aged otoro. You could tell that the kohada was pickled properly and given enough time in the vinegar; your lips should pucker as the gizzard shad enters your mouth. The aori ika (bigfin reef squid) featured a healthy shaving of aged bottarga, which gave it a type of fermented cheese flavor. The squid was also very intricately scored with a very fine crosshatch which showed the dedication of the chef to enhance the mouthfeel of the squid as it can be more chewy than the loin of a raw fish. Lastly of the sushi, one pressed sushi item was featured, which was with the fatty and oily torched barracuda (kamasu aburi).
Chef Matsuzaki stressed the specialness of the female seiko kani (presented with the male's shell), that it isn't readily available and highly seasonal. The texture of the various innards and flesh of the snow crab were quite interesting; of course the sweetness and deep umami of the crab flavor were greatly appreciated. The tender flakiness of the abura bozu (butterfish) was brushed with I believe a miso; the savory umami from the roasting and the caramelization of the glaze served to entice the palate well after consumption of the courses beforehand. Two items that I haven't had before (or remember in particular) included the ebimo (Japanese taro) and kaburamushi (steamed fish with turnip). Both were expertly prepared and provided a new gastronomic experience for myself.
The fish broth made from the bones and scraps of the fish used during service was emitted an incredible umami flavor that I have rarely encountered in any type of Asian soup. It takes considerable thoughtfulness to make this broth not an afterthought at the conclusion of the meal. The dried persimmon and hojicha were straight forward items which rounded out our evening.
If you want a different change of pace from Sushi Noz or a straight nigiri omakase, I highly suggest Noz 17. read more