For the first time, a form of culinary genius in Iraqi form has entered into my vocabulary: "Hallawlaw" read the plastic laminated menu in Times New Roman font right underneath other entries like 'kidney' and 'liver.' So what is "Hallawlaw", the inquisitive group and I asked in unison to the sweet but blatantly sarcastic waitress. She replied: "It's Hallowlaw! What of it?" She did not give a very convincing answer and we were left wondering what this curious dish was - so much so that we were all on our smart phones tracking it down. It barely registered and finally something came up: Hallawlaw = Sweetbreads. I had a feeling this was the case, and my instincts were right. "One Hallawlo please" - I barked at the waiter to the discerning of a giggly group of seven all in attendance of this Christmas Eve mid-morning meal. Many dishes were ordered and I would say that of the many restaurants we visited on this recent Detroit excursion, Najeeb Kabob House has to be one of my favorites.
Najeeb Kabob House is a hole in the wall in an otherwise dismal plaza flanked by the likes of Subway and Little Caesar's Pizza right next door - so what exactly brought us here you might ask? The answer lies in an Iraqi dish of extraordinary legend: "Tashreeb Bagilla." When I describe this dish to anyone except Iraqi people, they think that it is the most nonsensical concoction that they have ever heard of - even to Arabs of other nationalities. But trust me, this dish works and can make for one absolutely satisfying and delicious vegetarian dish. So here it is: First of all you have a large bowl filled with stale pieces of pita bread that have been slightly toasted. The second layer is a generous portions of large peeled fava beans placed over the bread. Then the steamy broth from the fava beans is poured over top of all this just enough to soak up the bread pieces. A dash of dried mint is applied as well as some fresh onions and pickles, and then a fried sunny-side up egg is placed over the entire bowl along with the oil it is cooked in - the oil is key. I prefer it with onions soaked in pomegranate molasses. Once the egg is applied, you break the yoke so that it seeps throughout the dish while making sure the oil is generously applied. The result is a warm, hardy, filling, delicious dish that will satisfy all the senses - the soaked pieces of bread with a layer of oil and slight crisp, the soft and ever-so-slightly bitter fava beans, the crunchiness of the onions, the refreshing sensation of the crushed mint, all work together in perfect harmony. As I am told - this is a dish established by non-other than the Babylonians themselves in ancient times. And as I am constantly reminded, you have not eaten true Iraqi food unless you've had Tashreeb Bagilla.
Incredibly enough, this was not the only excellent dish - some orders of Pastirma with eggs, Makhlama, and of course the Hallawlaw (which basically became the theme throughout this trip) were also ordered. Pastirma is basically a Arabian sausage usually made of minced lamb - it is an Arabicized word for 'Pastrami' - crazy. But also very delicious. Makhlama is usually a fried tomato and ground beef meat dish that can take on many forms but always keeps a consistent taste - dominated with cumin, salt, tomato, and spices and is eaten with small pieces of freshly baked bread. These dishes were great but the stand-out dish was indeed the Hallawlaw - the Sweetbreads. This is a dish that in most upscale restaurants will command a price of over $30 for maybe three tiny pieces. However, we were entertained with a gigantic plate with huge pieces of the sweetbreads which were chargrilled, slightly fatty with a faint mineral-y organ taste, they were perfect sandwiched in between the fluffy khobz bread with some fresh onions, tomatoes, and a little dash of sumac. I would literally fly back to Detroit just to have this dish again.
The Iraqi tea that is served after the meal is excellent. It is clear that they spend a lot of time perfecting it in a good steel kettle with multiple chambers over coal embers for the heat - hot, sweet, with delectable hints of cardamom. It is an essential beverage after a heavy meal like this.
This was a very inexpensive meal that soundly satisfied seven people. And as a reminder, this is a true hole in the wall kind of place that doesn't pretend to be anything other than a true authentic outlet into Iraqi cuisine. Don't expect any frills or culinary buzzwords and certainly don't expect a Zagat Rating or "People Love us on Yelp" sticker at the door - this is as real as real can get. And the true beauty of it all, is that it really tells the culinary story of Iraq in a perfect environment to enjoy time with friends and family. Also hats off to the staff - an incredibly friendly group of people who have dedicated their entire lives to ensure that this cuisine lives on to many other future generations.
5-Stars - Legendary read more