A jewel in Cliffside Park, NJ. If Minka Nikkei were a few miles to the east across the Hudson River it would probably be on its way to a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating and nabbing a reservation would be a chore. Tucked away in a humble storefront on a quiet side street off of Anderson Ave. it gives little hint to the culinary trasures lurking within, but it's well worth the journey as food this unique and innovative is hard to find even in Manhattan. Minka Nikkei is fusion cuisine in the best sense, a marriage of Peruvian and Japanese cuisines and ingredients in perfect harmony.
The atmosphere inside is warm and comfortable if a bit understated. There are a few colorful fabric decorations on the walls to keep things for being too austere. I enjoyed the old school deep house music in the background that took me back to my clubbing days.
The menu is divided into three sections: Crudo (7 items), Small Plates (10 items), and Signature/Large Plates (5 items). For my party of three, we chose two crudos, four small plates and a signature dish, which was a generous amount of food. It's BYOB which makes it a great value - I recommend a lighter Japanese or Mexican beer, crisp white wine, sake or shochu as an ideal accompaniment.
While it was difficult to pass up a ceviche, we were tempted by the market oysters and Hokkaido scallop crudo because the descrriptions and uncommon ingredients sounded irresistible. Both dishes lived up to expectations, with the briny oysters complemented by umami of the ponzu and the acidic bite of finger lime and the scallops' sweetness enhnced by a creamy sauce. These choices leaned more towards the Japanese end of the spectrum.
The small plates arrived next - Causa de Minka, Papas Bravas, Tebasaki Wings, Steak Anticucho. With the exception of the Tebaskai wings, which skewed very close to authentic Nagoya style, these dishes leaned more towards traditional Peruvian cuisine. The Causa de Minka was on the bland side compared to the flavor explosion of the crudos, but it had a nice richness from the mashed potato, olive aioli, and avocado. Small bits of octopus provided a firm texture contrast although the flavor was a bit lost. The Papas Bravas were outstanding - crispy chunks of fried potato splashed with rocoto aioli and salsa verde that had fresh lively herbal flavors and a kiss of heat. The Tebasaki wings are sweet and sticky, as they should be, with sweet miso umami and crisp crunchy texture. The Steak Anticucho is outstanding - two generous skewers of hearty tender medium rare beef cubes topped with chimichurri sitting on top of more crispy potato chunks. The beef is more flavor-packed than many steaks I've had in the city!
We finished with the pork belly chaufa, which was perfect for sharing. This is a rich dish of garlic/egg fried rice topped with generous slices of hoisin-glazed pork belly chashu. It's sweet, rich and filling, and it left the three of us too full for dessert.
The total bill for this highly satisfying meal was less than $150. In the city you'd easily pay $100-$200 more for food with these ingredients and imagination. Thanks to places like Minka Nikkei, there are fewer reasons to drive across the GWB. If you live in Manhattan, it's worth the trip across the Hudson and you'll still save a few bucks! read more