We are the middle children of history. Born too late to explore Seoul Restaurant, born too early to explore the Korean food boom in Milwaukee, born just in time to try out Maru...
With the loss of Seoul leaving only San Dong as the sole traditional Korean restaurant in town, I was really gearing up to make the oh-so-arduous trek to Chicago, but as fate would have it, I happened to pass by Maru just prior to its opening week while on my way to Merge. I immediately had to text the Asian group chat- dining at Maru was quickly established to be a Mandatory Attendance Event. The space takes over what was formerly known as Maru Sushi; it is a large, modern space with plenty of tables and booths for small groups and a bar area. Posters of their dishes decorate the street-facing windows. Overall, the restaurant is clean and very simply decorated. The restaurant was not very busy on the Friday evening when we went, so I hope they can get more customers. It looks like few are aware that this restaurant has opened (though their Instagram has started being more active). The street parking situation isn't great because the location is close to so many other popular restaurants and venues, but there are spots on the back streets and the Kenilworth lot across the street.
As opposed to Merge and Char'd (the other Korean popular restaurants downtown, we don't stan Stone Bowl) I would say the dishes at Maru are kind of traditional-modern. We started with the fried vegetable dumplings [$7.95 for 4 pieces], fried pork sweet & spicy dumplings [$9.95 for 6 pieces], and tteokbokki [$9.95]. The sauce on the sweet and spicy dumplings was really yummy- I think gochujang-based, just the right level of spice for my weak palate. The tteokbokki came out in a cute mini-skillet and had great flavor; this is a dish I make frequently at home and I liked Maru's drier (?) rendition, but the rice cakes were a little bit overcooked. Still solid, and I think it would be good if they could offer this in an entree size. I wasn't really huge on the banchan. They gave us really small amounts for the size of our group and didn't refill the banchan as other traditional places do...they also came out in the middle of the appetizers as opposed to right after ordering. Banchan we received this time were tempura sweet potato slices, eomuk, cucumber kimchi, and pickled radish.
We went family-style with our entrees! The kimchi bulgogi fried rice [$15.95 + $1 for egg] was good, I think it could have had a little more bulgogi. I was a little skeptical to try the seolleongtang [$16.95] because it's not a restaurant that specializes in it, but I felt that it was pretty decent- very comforting and good flavor. I wish it came with salt and scallions on the side since I'm used to this soup being served in a way that allows you to add your own condiments, but I understand this maybe isn't an approach diners in Milwaukee would be familiar with. I wasn't a huge fan of the beef bulgogi [$17.95]. There was some flavor I couldn't quite place that wasn't something I am used to...however, the spicy squid pork belly [$19.95] was delicious- my favorite dish of the night! So savory, sweet, and tasty. I would definitely come back just for this dish. Some of the entrees come with purple rice on the side. Overall, I would say the flavors are definitely toned down from a more traditional restaurant, probably to cater to MKE tastes. However, I was still able to enjoy the food- it hit the spot and I'm really happy that we have a restaurant like this in town. For our group of 5, this was just the right amount of food. I think the portions could be a little larger for the price but maybe I'll need to try and eat an entree on my own before making a definitive assessment on the portion sizes. Having tried both Merge and Char'd, I think I would be most inclined to recommend Maru for Korean food.
Our server was really friendly and very passionate about the food. I feel bad because she and another girl were the only servers in the restaurant that night, and even if the restaurant wasn't busy, it was still a lot for them to handle. We chatted with her a bit and learned that the owners are the ones cooking in the kitchen of this restaurant, and that they also own Merge (so I assume by extension Char'd as well, since I think I remember reading that Char'd and Merge have the same owners?). That's great for them, to have opened 3 Korean restaurants in town. Our server had high praise for the owners. It sounds like all the staff is very hardworking. I hope that Maru can get more customers, but in turn I hope they'll be able to hire more staff.
It seems they've already added several new dishes (including samgyeopsal!) since my friends and I were there, so I'll certainly be back for more. Maru is no big-city Korean restaurant, but it's decent at what it's trying to do and I hope it'll find success over these next years. Hopefully they can amp up the flavors too! read more