If you are living in New York and interested in procuring and consuming local meat than you probably know who Tom Mylan is. Star status aside, this review is not about Tom so let's focus on the product and the space.
Marlow & Daughters' much anticipated opening occurred recently, on the coattails of attention after being exalted as the only whole-animal butcher in New York City dealing exclusively with local meats. The product and stock of retail cuts are available on a somewhat exclusive basis, especially beef since they currently receive a single steer per week. So don't expect a full selection of steaks every time you go--when they run out, they run out until next week, with porterhouses, t-bones, and new york strips going quickly. Along with all the meat--beef, pork, duck, rabbit, veal, lamb, etc--they also offer house-made sausages, cured meats, a limited selection of local dairy and produce, and some gourmand pantry items.
The greatest part about M&D is that the animal is broken down on-site with a focus on snout-to-tail usage, providing ultra-fresh daily access to both traditional meat cuts and offal from local farms; You know you are getting quality meat, the animal is handled by an honoring individual, and you are supporting a local farm. This is something I've been yearning for, and it has finally arrived. It is worth noting that, given the focus on whole-animal butchering, the quality of the meat over a longer period of time will be directly related to the quality of the animal. This may sound obvious, but in higher turnover butcher shops consistency in quality is often a goal, allowing for dependability and expectation. When dealing with a single steer per week every aspect of the beef you buy--e.g. marbling, size, quality, etc--will undulate, providing a more intimate relationship between you and the origins of your meal. This is one of the many fantastic aspects to consuming food locally and closer to the source.
The glory of M&D certainly comes at a price; The meat is incredibly expensive. You are paying top dollar for high quality, locally procured meat that is butchered by the man selling it to you. (Something that, frankly, shouldn't come at such a premium.) There is a cost to that love story, so be prepared to shell out when visiting. Personally, I am a bit conflicted over the relationship between price and product. The manner in which the meat is butchered often focuses on leaving the fat on the cut, even on steaks--e.g. flatiron, hanger, flank, etc--which are often leaned before purchase. This is a great thing, since fat is the source of so much flavor, and I expect to pay the same for exterior fat as I do for meat, but make sure to specify if you want some trimmed before the purchase, because a 3-inch layer of exterior fat on a bone-in prime rib is just not necessary. Furthermore, if you are purchasing meat for curing, sausage making, or other meaty hobbies, make sure to purchase fatback separately, as it's much cheaper than when it's attached to some pork butt (though still $6).
A large portion of the beef is also dry aged. Dry aged beef is generally expensive because the process itself reduces the amount of product--the beef loses weight as the enzymes break down the tissue and the air-exposed exterior of the meat is usually thrown away. The one comment I have about the dry aging at M&D is that I don't think they trim enough of the exposed exterior prior to selling. If you are purchasing a dry aged cut try not to get an end piece, or if you do request that the hardened exterior be trimmed before purchase.
The meat isn't the only expensive item--the whole place is priced to kill--but it's the only item worth the coin. If you have another source for local produce and dairy chances are it's cheaper--I accidentally paid $13 for less than 3 pounds of potatoes--and the dry goods are probably tasty but $11 for any small jar of pomodoro sauce is ridiculous.
I've stopped by a couple times since the opening and in-total bought hundreds of dollars in meat and produce. Some has gone towards meals on the day of purchase while the rest is patiently waiting in my freezer for upcoming smoking, curing, and/or sausage stuffing sessions. Every time I've visited the turnover has been consistent. I sincerely hope that this continues and is not just a product of the recent opening and the holiday season. The mentality to support this type of establishment has been developing and maturing over the past many years as more focus is put on local, quality food. The high prices are worth it but that certainly does not make it affordable to everyone on a regular basis.
Despite M&D's cost, nothing can replace the benefit of a solid relationship with a quality butcher who in turn has farm relationships. If you like playing with meat you must visit this place. read more