On a recent trip to Chicago, my (part Ukrainian) boyfriend wanted to get some authentic Ukrainian food. I've never had the cuisine before, so we decided on the Magic Jug because the menu looked the most authentic. A small space with an unassuming brick and glass store front, you might miss it if you weren't looking closely. But the moment you step inside, you're magically transported through time and space to a Ukrainian grandma's house! You can see her in the kitchen, rolling out dough, as you sit down amidst the wood-covered walls and traditional woven tablecloths. All around you are traditional paintings of smiling Ukrainian girls, poppies, and mermaids, and a little wooden Ukrainian bear greets you from the napkin holder on the table.
The server brought a basket of bread and butter right to our table when we ordered. There were two kinds of bread, one looked plain white, the other was hearty sunflower seed. It had a crust of crunchy sunflowers and what tasted like anise sprinkled across the top. Then came our golubtsi--what my boyfriend calls Ukrainian egg rolls. They are cabbage leaves stuffed with warm meat, rice, and spices and served with fresh dill sprinkled on top and a side of sour cream. The golubtsi were cooked to perfection; the cabbage leaves were soft enough so that you could easily cut through them, making me think they had maybe been boiled, but there was a perfect golden crispness on top. When I get a dish colored in shades of beige and wrapped in cabbage leaves, I expect it will be pretty bland. So I was happily surprised when these unassuming cabbage rolls were bursting with meaty, spicy, herby flavor. The fresh dill and sour cream lightly counterbalanced the savory, warm filling.
Next, our pelmeny were served in an earthenware jug, and it really was magical. Pelmeny are small, buttery, chewy dumplings filled with ground meat and onion. They came to us piping hot with a hearty sprinkle of dill on top. When I cut one in half, the buttery, golden sauce it was cooked in came oozing out and made everything else on my plate that much happier. About the size of a golf ball, I could have eaten at least 30 of these. I imagined myself sitting in a wooden Ukrainian hut on a frozen January day, warmed inside and out with a steaming little jug of pelmeny.
Last in our tour of savory dishes was the cheburek, a fried meat pie. It was a pocket of dough about the size of a dinner plate folded in half, again filled with spicy ground meat. The meat mixture was similar to the others, spicy, hot, oniony and dilly, and similarly delicious. The dough was freshly made, with a delightful flaky texture fried to golden brown perfection.
To finish off the meal, we ordered what was labeled simply as "sweet" in the English menu translation. It turned out to be two thin crepe-like pastries filled with a sweet cheese filling, fairly similar to cheese blintzes. The sweets were sprinkled with powdered sugar, drizzled with fruit sauce and served with whipped cream and chocolate sauce on the side. Even though we finished the meal feeling as stuffed as the golubtsi, the bill was surprisingly small!
Come to the Magic Jug if you want to be whisked away to delightful Ukrainian flavors, charm, and hospitality. read more