Michael K. and I flew into Chicago on one of the coldest nights of the winter. We came in later than expected, and when Janice K. scooped us up from ORD, we headed straight to Longman & Eagle for an 11:00 dinner. The place was busy, and we had to wait a few minutes for a table. We had a nice chat with the hostess, and she was really pleasant. We talked about dogs.
The space was small and dim and dense with pubby atmosphere, with decor consisting mostly of dark wood furniture and an awesome bar that commanded most of the lighting. Dinner was very casual, which was great for me, dressed as I was for an airplane followed by burning cold weather. Service was great throughout the night. I liked our waiter - he was attentive and helpful. The only hitches were some delays at the bar, for which our waiter apologized each time.
The $8 cocktails were impressive. The Harvest Sidecar was excellent, refreshing and sweet, with applejack, Cointreau, pear liqueur, fresh lemon, nutmeg, and a housemade pimento dram. I also loved the Monk's Cooler with bourbon, lemon, rosemary syrup, orange bitters, and Monk's Cafe beer. It was very refreshing, with a great herbal fragrance from the rosemary syrup and a giant rosemary sprig garnish. The Longman Manhattan was a pretty good, smooth version of the classic, with bourbon, Punt é Mes, and angostura and cherry bitters. I was indifferent to the Shrubbery, a surprisingly sweet drink with bourbon, amaretto, lemon, and Old Fashioned bitters. I closed out dinner with the Yuzu Toddy - Marker's Mark, applejack, lemon, yuzu honey, and hot water. It was a particularly strong drink, releasing hot alcoholic fumes from several inches away, but if you like bourbon and yuzu tea, then you should love this.
The food ranged from fair to excellent, with the better dishes weighted towards the smaller plates. We started with the warm cheese gougeres stuffed with a Dunbarton blue Mornay sauce. These were like savory choux creams, with sweet pastry dough stuffed with the oozing blue cheese sauce. The buffalo sweetbreads smacked us with even more flavor, the soft sweetbreads deep fried and coated in hot sauce. I loved the texture of the sweetbreads, and they went wonderfully with the light, almost foamy aerated ranch, as well as the Thumbelina carrots and micro celery. My favorite dish of the night was the rabbit paté with giardinière pickles and sourdough tartines. This was despite the fact that the toasted sourdough was rock hard and inedible. Luckily the paté spoke for itself, well spiced and meaty and just a bit gamey, bordered in a little bit of bacon. The pickles, an assortment of julienned vegetables laced through with mustard seeds, were the perfect lightening touch, helped too by a generous helping of grainy mustard.
The meal curved downhill from there, though there were still good things to come. My least favorite dish was the pastrami spiced pig head, which made the rabbit paté seem even more of a screaming success. The pig head was dry and chalky and flatly flavored, served with a mix of doughy sauerkraut gnocchi, dehydrated rye, shaved pear-watercress salad, and thousand island sugo that didn't add up to much. The flavor profile smacked me as dull. The roasted marrow bones were better, with red onion jam, sea salt, and sourdough crostinis. I've probably had better bone marrow, but this was delightful, and I liked the sweet onion jam. The crostini were also soft and edible, which was a plus.
The bigger dishes were less successful on average, but I did really like the wild boar sloppy joe. This was a sandwich on fluffy brioche with a lot of soft wild boar with a chili-like texture and flavor, topped with crispy sage, onion, and pickled jalapeño. The jalapeño was seriously hot, and perhaps distracting, but the dish was great. I also loved the crispy beef fat fries, cooked very well done with plenty of salt. Our last two dishes, though, were not great. The hand rolled cavatelli had its moments, namely the tender hunks of artichoke, but the pasta was too doughy. It also came with rapini, chanterelles, truffle butter, grana padano, and a matsutake puree, but most of that did not deliver as much as I'd hoped. The dish was also quite salty. I wouldn't recommend the "Steak and Egg" either, a fairly boring dish of beef short rib, with pickled ramps, black trumpet mushrooms, bordelaise sauce, and a farm egg and creamed spinach raviolo. The beef was fine, but the raviolo was dry and bland, with the egg yolk fully cooked inside.
Our dessert was quite good - a maple and bourbon cornbread pudding with huckleberry compote, date-bourbon custard, and charred olive oil ice cream. The cornbread was rich but not overwhelming, and the ice cream was superb. I'm glad we ended on a good note, as I liked Longman & Eagle overall. Though the food sometimes missed, I really enjoyed the meal. I'd recommend the place to anyone in search of good food and drink under one roof. read more